The Bake option on my JGRP17 gas wall oven is functioning fine, however, the Broiler option is not. When I hit the Broil button, a light goes on in the display area reading Broil. When I push the Start button, The Fan goes on, but the flame does not ignite. I have read in another troubleshooting posting that a non working broiler can mean that my clock may have been set from manual to automatic in error, however there are no auto or manual buttons on this oven to hit as instructed in the troubleshooting reply to correct the problem.
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Re: GE JGRP17 Gas Oven
Rosanne, he problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in
series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of
electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to
"bake". When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow
through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.
you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part
number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts
retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.
First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN OR TURN IT OFF AT THE BREAKER!
replace it... Remove the racks and look up at the broiler manifold. You'll see the igniter mounted at the rear (the round thing with 2 wires going to it). You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.
(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish
soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not
strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)
new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two
wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then
connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the
ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter, tuck any loose wires as far back into the oven as possible and replace the racks.
(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)
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Possibly the bake igniter, the temperature sensor or the electronic oven clock/control. Does broil mode heat properly or does it run cool also? If broil heats to the proper temperature then the temperature sensor is probably ok. That leaves the ignitor or the controller which takes some more troubleshooting. If it is the controller, we repair them at www.fixyourboard.com.
Control senses oven temperature above 615F-630F. shut down the breaker switch asap.
If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded
relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven
control (also called clock or ERC).
If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high
resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven
temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor
harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found
Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit
, not actual oven temperature.
The temperature sensor is bad. The broil element will work even if the temp sensor is bad but the bake element will not. If you measure the resistance across the contacts on the sensor, it should be around 20 ohms, if it is much higher (1000+), then it is bad and should be replaced. It is just as easy to replace as the elements and looks like a small pencil sized rod in the inside top of the oven. Let me know how this works out for you.
The JGRP17 (not a full model number) does not have a pilot light. It uses glow bar ignitors. Watch the burner at the top of your oven when you turn on broil. After a short time the glow bar ignitor begins to glow, and a short time after that the broiler burner should ignite. The same thing should happen with the oven burner under the floor of the oven when you attempt to bake. If the igniter does not glow, or glows and burner does not light, replace ignitor. (looks like part #
Similar problem. When baking over 400 degrees we get the F2 code that can only be reset by cycling the power at the breaker. Replaced the electonics to no avail. I'm thinking its the cooling fan located between the oven and microwave (upper unit) it never comes on which may cause a separate temp switch to generate the F2... but I'm not a pro. :)