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Re: burners will not light or stay lit
Lhs burner - problem is probably thermo-couple. this is a safety device which prevents gas escape if flame blows out.
rhs burner - you do not say if it can be lit by a match. if so then it is a problem with the electrode or the wire to it chaffed thro. if can't be lit by a match, then a problem with the gas valve which is unusual
not a diy fix unless you are experienced
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Hi look for adjustments to the lighter and also there should be a sensor tat sees the fire , this sesor allows the main gas to turn on, but only if it feels the heat , kind of like a thermocouple , if you think about about any type problem like this: what is it not doing ? then think what could cause this >/? if you go about any repair this way there is nothing you can't fix unless you need a part !
I have the same problem especially with the center burner, but now am having increasing difficulty with two other burners. Those will eventually stay lit if I depress the knob for 20 - 30 seconds. The center burner will not stay lit, even when keeping the knob depressed for 2 - 3 minutes!
Keep the air holes around the burners free of debris and grease by clearing out the holes with a thin piece of wire or a toothpick. Cleaning out the holes helps the ignitor light the cooktop
Listen for the clicking sound of the ignitor, then turn off the burner if you don't hear the clicking.
Turn the burner to the "Off" position, if you continue to hear the ignitor tick after you've lit the burner. Turn the burner back on to relight it. Ignitors normally make a brief series of electrical clicking sounds when you turn on the ignitors.
Let the ceramic igniter dry out if it has gotten wet and the burner won't ignite. If the igniter isn't wet, clear out the little holes in the burner by chipping out any blockage with a straightened paper clip.
Clean the electrodes if the burners still don't light. The electrode is in the burner base. Clean the metal part with a soft cloth. You can use emery board on the metal part but not the white ceramic part.
I've seen this problem before. It happens when spillage get's into the ignitor switches. The switches are mounted on top of the gas turn-on valves. You have to replace all the ignitor switches because they are connected into wire harness.
This is caused by a faulty sensor that is located between the burner element and the top. To replace the faulty part you will need to uninstall the cooktop and remove the glass top. The sensor is a rod a little smaller than a pencil that you will see right on top of that burner.
If you choose not to replace the sensor it will not cause any issues other than you will have to live with that light constantly on and you will know when the top is hot for that element.
Does the burner attempt to re-ignite after it goes out? If so, it's probably the therocouple. If not, it could be the burner valve. Be sure the caps and rings are correctly seated on the burners and be sure to firmly press the burner knob down to start the flame.
OK, the best action is to call for service, if the unit was just installed, and purchased. This unit should be covered at this time, by the manufactures warranty, or store 30 day warranty. This repair should be free. The culprit will be a faulty spark ignition switch, and module. Testing is required. Once this switch, or(module), is replaced, the unit will operate correctly.