After moving dryer to new apartment, worked at first but now won't turn on
Working fine in old apartment...dryer is 5-1/2 yrs old...connected in new apartment and tested and it worked. But when I went to use it the second time wouldn't even turn on.
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Either one or 2 things happened. The move cause the lint to shift around inside the dryer and it overheated blowing the fuse. OR the new apartment's vent is blocked and caused the dryer to overheat. All maytag dryers are not the same but they all have a non resetable fuse mounted on the blower housing. When the temp exceeds 350f it melts and kills power to the motor. If the motor is not running the heat does not get power. The motor must be turning to make the cent switch power up the heater. Dryer manuals
Hi How old is it , ? and dose it soun like the motor is running but not turnning the drum ? this would be a bad belt , you will need to do some more investagating for me to help you
Ultimate Car
II Dryers are fitted with a mechanical timer that sends an impulse to
the control circuit board to stop running once the set amount of drying
time has elapsed. This is because, should an electronic timer fail, this
would necessitate the replacement of the entire circuit board. Confirm
that the mechanical timer is indeed broken by opening the dryer's door.
If the dryer stops, the circuit board is working fine and is not the
problem. Simply slide off the protective faceplate of the dryer, unscrew
the control board beneath, and flip it over. Connected to the back of
the timer's knob should be a small round device with two wires running
to the circuit board within the body of the dryer. Unscrew this device
from the back of the knob and disconnect the wires. A replacement timer
costs a few dollars and should screw into place without trouble.
Reconnect the wires and put the dryer back together. It should work fine
now.
If you need a new timer the best place ti get it is from Rough River Appliance Repair
Phone number is (270) 230-1818 his name is Charlie and he is the best!
It sound s like the grill's regulator is locked up from "burping" the tank. Hopefully it's not a permanent lockup. To hopefully solve the problem, follow the steps below:
1. Turn the tank valve OFF and disconnect the hose from the tank. 2. Turn the burner(s) ON for 1 Minute, Then turn them OFF. 3. After 5 minutes reconnect the hose to the tank and open the valve VERY, VERY, SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow). 4. Once the tank valve is fully open light one burner and turn it to HIGH. Did the burner light and does the flame height look correct? Id so, light the remaining burner the way. Did it light and the flame height look correct? If so, you solved the problem (with a little help).
If
the above didn't solve the problem, the Hose/regulator Assembly needs
to be replaced. What happened was this, when you turned the tank upside
to "burp" the tank. The OPD Valve shot a hot load of gas to the
regulator, when you opened it, as you normally would and permanently
locked up the grill's regulator. That "burping" trick used to work with
the old style tanks. Won't work with the new ones. You can get a new
hose/regulator assembly at any home center or hardware store, that
sells grills and accessories. They run about $30.00. Take your old one
with you for comparison purposes. Once you install the new one and
connect it to the tank. Open the Valve Very, Very Slowly, until it is
fully open. Or you may have the same problem again.
Hope this helped to solve the problem. Happy Grilling!!
As everything in your dryer is working fine apart from it heating properly so the recommended repair will be thermal fuse/thermostat replacement. However, you can also test its continuity before replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
This dryer needs to be taken apart to lubricate any and all moving parts. Idler pulley and rollers, if they are worn out in any way, replace them.
Also, consider a new belt.
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