Motorized awning feature sensors that cause them to
automatically deploy when it's sunny or rainy and retract when it's windy to
prevent damage, rather than doing it manually every time.
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Some of the LED Awning Lights will not run up the arm, where they are interested into the side seam if the vinyl of the awning. I have seen after market work done where the wiring is cut into the edge seam and sealed up afterwards so you minimize and wiring being twisted up at the motor assembly or needing to have an open slip ring to get power to the lights, which can become corroded or need cleaning frequently. Start by having the awning open and looking for working coming out the the wall at the anchor rails. There will be one cable for the motor to extend and retract the awning, so don't get them confused. The wiring for the motor will be larger than the LED power wiring.
The motor is supposed to hold tension against the spring at the opposite end. If the awning is loose, the spring may need to be replaced. If it still rolls out/up fine, it's the spring. Also, if it's the vinyl fabric it can stretch over time and not be quite as tight.
When you press the operation switch do you hear the motor clicking or trying to operate? If not you need to determine if you have power going to and through the operation switch. These motors usually have an inline circuit breaker that will need to be located. Some of the circuit breakers automatically reset themselves and some have a small button on the side that will pop out when tripped. Once you determine that you have power to the motor and it still does not work then you more than like have a bad motor and will need to manually override the motor to bring the awning in. The awning should have a manual crank that will allow you to connect to the center eye of the operating gear and manually close the awning. I have attached the installation and operating instructions for your awning. http://67.238.126.140/pdf/3307901.011.pdf
Yep ~ exposed wires to the weather elements PLUS the stress and flex-action as you open and close your awnings can quickly lead to disaster (again)!
Perhaps a GENEROUS amount of clear (tube) RTV SILICONE applied to the wire access hole/point AT your Motor?
Since you are replacing MOTORS often ~ perhaps thereal cause failures are the MECHANICAL FLEXIBLE JOINTS of your AWNING ~ (being) too stiff offering too much mechanicalresistance to your MOTOR?
> YOU DO< have a lot of them so CAREFULLY spray just enough 'garage door lubricant' to them to assure minimal resistance to awning movement and motor movement!
Also it seems that everybody ~ including your motor mfg. ~ wants to save a buck so they substitute smaller wires (internally and externally) or any other 'trick' that will shave down their costs! So try to hunt for a older (new) motor... perhaps that will extend the life of same...
Sadly your motor looks rather specialized so finding a beefier / stronger replacement (at less cost) looks like slim chances... I was thinking of maybe a older satellite 'C-Band' dish motor? Those puppies are STRONG and built to handle LOTS of TORQUE-stress due to HIGH wind issues on the surface. DIsh motors are also VERY reasonable in cost!
Do you have a 'machine-shop friend
d that can help and make special brackets ~ and perhaps modified motors may be your ultimate answer?
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