How do you replace the capacitor?

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks category.

Humming normally means the start / run capacitor on the motor has failed and needs replacing.

Or something is jammed, but unlikely.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Rival+8420+motor+hums

..

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Laundry Dryer.

Replace the start capacitor on the motor. The classis reason for humming and not spinning. The start capacitor gives the motor a jolt to get it running.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Hitachi+table+saw+start+capacitor

..

Normally indicative of a failed start capacitor. Phone 'INYO Pools' to check. They will confirm. The only other possibility is that it is jammed.

In this image the start capacitor is the black tubular cylinder on the left. you will see in the text that the capacitor gives the motor a boost to get it turning.

CAPACITOR - This Capacitor, referred to as a Start Capacitor, is tied directly to the Start Winding. This Capacitor together with the Start Windings provides an increase of 150 -175 % of torque to the motor shaft during its initial startup. When the motor reaches 2/3 to 3/4 full speed after a few seconds of operation, the start circuit will shut off. The start capacitor will generally be rated at 50-400 MFD and 125 or 250 VAC. If your motor won't start and hums when you try to turn it on, you probably have a bad Start Capacitor. For instruction on replacing this part see our guide on "How To Replace a Pool Pump Capacitor".

https://www.google.com/search?q=pool+pump+motor+Smith+1.0+HP+184948-22+start+capacitor

..

Not always, just replace the cap to start with. Sometimes they howl an other bearing make a noise.

1 or 2 capacitors on this motor?
Sometimes there are two...
One is a "Start" capacitor and if a 2nd one, that one is a "Run" capacitor.

If only 1 capacitor and you have replaced it... if not a faulty capacitor, then your windings are shot?

When I test a motor with this symptom, I will use the "Clock Face" method of checking for "Dead Spots" on the winding/stator:
Once you have removed the shaft cap on the back of the motor, I presume you have done this since that is only way to turn the shaft manually to get it to run in the manner you described. Place a small mark (1/4" long?) on the outside perimeter of the shaft, say at the 12:00 position. See picture attached...
Then flip switch, does it start or hum?
Then rotate shaft until your mark is now at the 1:00 position. Flip power switch, running or humming?
Do this at all clock positions as you turn/rotate shaft until you reach 12:00 once more. If the pump hums at all clock positions completely dead motor or bad capacitor. If a dead spot is at only one clock position, then absolutely, bad motor - either rebuild or replace.
Coincidentally the motor may stop each time on a dead spot, where the motor won't start due to a fried portion of the stator/winding/armature, only a major repair fixes this. The purpose of the test is to place the position of the stator in a different position in relation to the windings. If humming all the way around, then possibly a bad capacitor, because it is not starting in any position. If it starts say at all positions except 4:00 and 9:00 then motor is bad.

Good luck

yes there is start capacitor on each motor, connected to start winding.
There are two windings on each motor: start winding and run winding.
Both windings receive power at same time. If the start winding is bad, or capacitor is bad, then motor hums as the run winding receives power but there is not enough torque to get the motor rotating.
If motor is humming instead of rotating, then quickly the motor overheats and looses speed after repair or melts and fails.
The problem with disposal repair is getting the thing apart... finding replacement capacitor, or replacement parts, and then reassembling without a leak.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-repair-and-install-Garbage-disposal.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html#motor
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html#Motor

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

replace the start capacitor located on the motor housing these are brush-less motors and incorporate a capacitor or start or centrifugal switch and both are easily replaced and quite inexpensive

If the humming is your compressor running (feel the large copper line going into the unit, it should feel cold aftter a few minutes of run time) then the fan motor or the capacitor or both need to be replaced, check for voltage to the fan motor when the unit is "humming" if it has voltage and will not start replace the fan motor and the capacitor. hope this helps.

** ALLWAYS unplug a dryer before working on it.
Humming means the motor may not be turning.
The motor could be 'capacitor start'. Replace the capacitor.
The motor could be centrifugal start. Remove the belt. Still won't start? Replace the motor.
The motor bearings could be seized. Rebuild the motor or replace it.
The belt may be broken if the humming is a higher pitch. Replace the belt.
The drum may be jammed. Clean and lube the main bearing (Use Maytag Turbine oil or the recommended lube), the support wheels or the guides. Replace felt seals at the same time for best results.

can you remove the belt and run it/..look at the motor if it is spinning. let me know. normally, if it hums, its the motor which is not starting, when you replaced the motor, im sure it has its own centrifugal switch and starting capacitor. did you replaced the starting capacitor?..it could be open.