If you have the service manual there is a section that shows you how to get the protection mode history with the codes. You can also reset all of the protection from the service menu listed above. Be careful in doing so but have fun if your fed up with it not working.
Ok mine works now. Here's what I did. Since the problem was either the speakers or something inside the receiver. I removed all the wires from the speakers then went down to my local Radio Shack to buy new wire. The salesman ask what it was for so I explained and he said very rarely is it the wire that's bad so he suggested to trim all the wire and to make sure all the connections were clean of debris even if you couldn't see it to clean out all the connections I used allot of wind and a small paint brush and them then re-split the wire and one speaker at a time Very carefully with the stereo volume on VERY low so you can hear when you put it on your ear. If the stereo clicks off during this re-connect then the problem is with the receiver. Mine never clicked off during this test. Have not had a problem since. Let me know if this works with any one else. Sue
I had the same problem with my YAMAHA AV-90PY Amplifier...
won't stay turned ON for more than a few seconds before it shuts OFF.... Thanks to this guys online I got it FIX.
The problem was the SPEAKERS WIRES were crossing making my stereo to shut off... So check the wires.
Have not quite figured this one out ,but found that if you hold the Power/Standby button while holding the Input next and Multi Channel input you can turn the amp ON. Keep all 3 buttons pressed until you here a large click noise and now the Amp run. This By-passes the initial power up self check , and gives you access to the service settings. It seems to be able to tell you whether or not a fault is present but on mine it says all OK when quite clearly it is not. I haven't yet figured out the magic parameter to change to make this receiver come back from the dead , but I think I'm on the right track, If I find a solution I'll post it, and hope if someone else beats me to it, they'll enlighten me.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
GBC appear to just be a crappy company. I have a Heatseal H212, same problem. Worked fine then one day when I turned it on it never became "ready". I waited a while longer then turned it off.. except it wouldn't let me turn it off. I had to unplug it from the mains to get it off. After that, it would never turn on. Checked the fuse, it was fine.
P1607 means "powertrain control module (PCM) internal circuit malfunction". According to the factory service manual, a low battery condition can cause this. This code can also pop up after the battery has been jump started.
You need to reset the PCM. To do this, turn the ignition switch off. Remove the No. 13 fuse (7.5Amp) from the passenger's under dash fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds. Put the fuse back in. That should complete the reset.
Now to check again for the code: turn the ignition switch to on (not start.) Wait 30 seconds. If the check engine light stays OFF, turn the ignition switch off and wait 10 seconds. Turn the ignition switch back to on (not start). Wait 10 seconds. If the check engine light stays OFF, you had an intermittent fault and it has now been reset--everything is fine. If the check engine light comes back on during these checks, have the code that set read out. If the code is P1607 again, then you may have to have the PCM tested at the dealership for an internal fault.
I had this problem and it turned out to be the fuse located inside the cabin. i had checked (and replaced) the fuse in the engine compartment but didn't think about the one under the steering column. It was an immediate fix.
It sounds like there is a short somewhere in your wiring. If the problem got worse when you installed the aftermarket stereo then it may be on the factory side of the plug. You may try powering the stereo by some other means. For example, try a wire with an inline fuse directly from the fuse block to the power wire on the stereo. You can also tap into the ignition wire that way the only way it will get power is when the key is turned on. Don't forget the inline fuse if you try it that way. I had to do that with a stereo I once had.
my friend you have a power supply problem,check the fuses, replace any blown one and if blows the fuse again you need someone with electronics skills to replace one the yokes that is bad,usually is the red.
i had the same problem, apperantly creative made an error making the hardware for the subwoofer, and put in an mos-fet with to little resistance, i called creative and gave them the serial number behind the subwoofer and they sent me a new one that hasnt acted up yet.