I need parts for the IDC 400 31cc cultivator

Disconnect the kill wire from the module and see if you get spark. If so you have a faulty kill system

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Well first I need to know the model #####?

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How old is it? Does it show a spark when you remove plug an hold against engine while pulling cord? Did you replace plug? It is the most common problem. Remove the stop wire an try to start, if it does or you see spark the switch is bad. I would check put these things before replacing module.

You will probably need to remove the engine covers and check the "air-gap" between the coil (ignition module) and the magnets in the flywheel. An acceptable gap is .010"-.012". This is about the equivalent of the thickness of a standard business card. Once you are to the point of adjustment, fold the business card in half (with coil module screws loose, but still in engine), slide the card in between the flywheel and pickup legs on the coil; then turn the flywheel until the magnets line up and let them "draw" the coil in with the folded up card in between. I say fold it, because the pressure from the pull of the magnets actually compresses the paper card, and you end up with an acceptable "air-gap". Tighten the module screws real tight while the card is still in, them remove the card. Try this and post back if needed. You can initially check the "air-gap" with a feeler gauge, but it is tricky with a steel one as it tends to stick to the magnets. They have non-magnetic gauges for this.

Change the plug, then test again, if still no spark then check the kill mechanism under the shroud, and if still no spark change the ignition module.

I hope this helps.

If this model is a 2 stroke engine, it may need the air-gap adjusted between the ignition coil modules legs and the magnets built into the flywheel.

The timing is not adjustable. When the flywheel is set on the crankshaft and the key inserted between the crankshaft and the flywheel, this aligns the magnets in the flywheel with the coil. As the flywheel spins, the magnets swing past the coil setting up an electromagnetic field, thus generating the spark. I suspect that when you say a "new module was installed" you are referring to the coil. If it was installed correctly and gapped properly your timing can't be off. Accordingly, the problem likely lays elsewhere. You may wish to inspect the fuel lines. If the machine is more than 3-4 years old they are probably cracked or broken. Also check to make sure the fuel filter hasn't come off of the pickup line inside the fuel tank. This is a very common problem and fairly easy to repair.

If the spark is weak, try disconnecting kill switch, still weak need new ign module

Only 3 possibilities for no spark. First, are you using an inline spark tester to determine there is no spark? If so, here's your possibilities.
1. The on/off switch is shorted out.
2. There is a short in the wire(s) from the switch to the ignition module.
3. The module is faulty.
Dissassemble the engine cover far enough to access the module. There is a small wire that leads to a spade connector on the module. Disconnect this wire. Retest for spark. If you still have no spark, the module is faulty and must be replaced. If you now have spark, then the module is good, so back track the wires to the switch to determine if the wires are pinch or chaffed, or if the switch is stuck in the off position.

If you are not testing for spark with an inline tester, please, please go to Walmart or Pepboys or Autozone or NAPA or Sears and spend $7 to $10 on the tester....it will save you alot of trouble.

Good luck.

leave your killswitch wire not hooked up and try?
check the flywheel key way and be sure it is aligned perfectly with the key way on the crankshaft
if it is you are in time
if not its out of time (timing off)
since it didnt work with the air gap at .014 go closer and set at .012 and see what happens
be sure to adj. the air gap at the magnet part of the flywheel and ign. module and secure module at a setting you want