The spindle that turns the kneeding paddle came out--appears that the ball-bearings or whatever held it in disintegrated with a lot of use. The machine is over 6 years old--used on average of at least once or twice a week.
Can this be fixed? Replaced?
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Re: Fixing the Cup
Take the breadmaker to any decent machine shop and show them the problem bearing - these bearings are standard and they will be able to find the right type and size to fit. Actually replacing the bearing is usually pretty easy, although sometimes heat and/or cold etc may need to be applied to get the old one off or new one on.
Get them to check there is not also a rubber seal or similar that needs replacing too, as often there will be.
Definitely can be fixed if all else is working fine. A new bearing shouldn't be expensive, $5-$20 would be about right and probably it's at the cheaper end of that.
If it turns out that the bearing is a special one that they cannot get hold of, see if you can post back with a picture and some measurements, and any writing that is on the side of the bearing itself - hopefully we can source one easily enough online.
Hope this helps :)
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forget the torch idea as it will damage the axle
bearings appear hard but in fact cut readily with an angle grinder
cut at an angle and almost all the way in
get a cold chisel and hit the cut hard and the bearing will crack and be easy to pull off
As long as the drive mechanism beneath the pan is still stiff to turn and fels like it engages the motor you should be fine. See pic. The centre 4 spike drive unit is what is important. Normally the toothed drive belt will fail. If this is still good then replace the pan.
Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).
Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).
Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint
Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint
Front Wheel Spindle
Steering Sector Shaft Arm Drag Link
Front Axle Assembly
Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft)
Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)
Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.
Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.
Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.
Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.
CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.
Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.
Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.
Ball Joint, F-150, F-250, F-350
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Ball Joint Remover
Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and ball joint assembly from the axle. Refer to Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350 in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.
NOTE: Lower ball joint must be removed first.
Install the front wheel spindle in a vise and remove the snap ring from the lower ball joint.
Remove the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle using U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 or equivalent for F-150. Use Ball Joint Remover T94T-3010-AH for F-250 and F-350.
Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or the front wheel spindle to aid in removal.
Assemble U-joint tool and cup on the upper ball joint, and turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is removed from the front wheel spindle.
CAUTION: Do not heat the ball joint or axle to aid in installation. NOTE: Upper ball joint must be installed into the front wheel spindle first.
NOTE: Individual ball joint tools are included in Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent.
To install the upper ball joint, assemble C-frame assembly, Ball Joint Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1 and D81T-3010-A3 or equivalents inside cup D81T-3010-A4 or equivalent in position on the front wheel spindle.
Turn forcing screw clockwise until ball joint is seated.
More than likely you are talking about the front wheel bearings.If they are sold in just the bearing by itself the spindle assembly has to be reemoved from the car and the old bearing pressed out ands the new one pressed back into the spindle.If it is sold as a hub and bearing assembly ,it is held in place by three bolts and a center nut.This job is best performed by a repair shop.
King's auto care inc.
Hi, Take the bread pan and paddle out of the machine and see if the paddle spins freely by hand. If it sticks then the sealed bearing is failing. If everything is good here, check the tension on the belt pulley. The belt may be too loose to spin the paddle freely under load. Belt and motor is inside the base of the machine. Good Luck..Hank
Ball joints appear to be the cause. Anytime there is un/down left/right movement in the wheel. Get it done soon as the ball joints hold the spindle to the control arm and if it pops out the wheel comes off...not good when driving
Hi, There is a sealed bearing at the bottom of the pan. This allows the paddle to rotate. The bearing has failed and is falling apart. This usually happens with age or use. Time for a new bread pan. If you are lucky you can find one on ebay. Sorry for the bad news....Hank