Can't plug 400watt ballast into a digital timer,bulb won't light.

Anon, the bulb/lamp plugs into the ballast, The attached videos shows the ballast and location near the end of the video. Check the attached links. Good luck
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Actually the lights them selves might be damaged or the ballasts that start them. I do not know how you can test them. But if you look at the ends and they are black that is not a good sign. if they are the same shade from end to end thats good, the next thing might be the ballast's or starters. I do not expect you to have starters but they would be cheaper and easier to change if you did. To find the ballasts you would need to disassemble the bed. they would most likely be located between the lights and might power two four or eight lights each. and be connected to many wires. all leading to the lights at each end and the power supply. unplug the bed before you start they will be heavy and usually black color does not matter but they will be heavy. unless they are starters.

1) DT27 timer is same as Kichler 15559.
I don't think either product is still available unless another company such as Brinks has taken over the design.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-timers-and-manuals.html#DT27

2) Change LR44 batteries
And then reset timer by depressing reset button.
Reprogram.
Check light bulb is operable, and lamp switch is ON. Move timer to different outlet.
Check circuit breaker.
Plug in different lamp.
If functionality is not restored, then buy another timer such as Intermatic DT620 with lifetime warranty (shows just above DT27.)

3) Many timers today do not require battery and have internal rechargeable battery instead.
Timer designs change because CFL and LED bulbs are inductive loads, while many older timers were rated only for resistive loads such as incandescent bulbs.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following links to identify timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#N1502

http://www.amazon.com/ACE-TRADING-COLEMAN-Spotlight-Digital/dp/B005PZIOVM


2) Woods spotlight timer appears to have mixed reviews on Amazon.

3) Cheap outdoor timers with photoeye are subject to frequent failure. Might be better to get ordinary spotlight yard stake, and plug that into analog wall timer like Woods 59204, or plug into outdoor remote control like Woods 32555.

4) I do not have instruction manual for this product. When you buy product, it probably has instruction sheet that will show operational parameters, and 1 year limited warranty.

5) This timer has 1 year limited warranty.

6) Try timer on different outlet.
Test outlet for at least 80% rated voltage.
Use circuit analyzer and test outlet for correct polarity and grounding.

7) I suggest buying timers at local store for easier returns. Simply buy another timer and return defect in new package. This action will give consumer warranty that extends beyond 1-year shown on package.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hello Terry. Which GE digital timer do you have?
Copy following link to identify timer, and download manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html

Reset timer using reset button.
If timer has no voltage, then check outlet.
Check circuit breaker.
Check that light bulb is good.
If timer is plug-in type, then test outlet with circuit analyzer. Try timer in different outlet with different light.
Re-post question with timer model number, and things you have tried so far.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

There is a ballast which drives the lamp--a hint would be to try to be in a position if possible to see if lamp ignites at all or even for a moment.

The ballasts do fail but rarely----it develops about 12,000 plus to the lamp and is much like spark plug wires as far as rf.

Some checks would have to be made and then the ballast priced--google the model number with ballast after it to get and idea.

No cut and dried solution here--several possible causes.

Hi W Bloom,


First of all, thank you for contacting Fixya.com regarding your TV problem.


My first advice is to do system reset by pressing the "Power" button key at the front panel and hold it for 10 secs.


Please check also if you can access the "Error Code Log" by pressing the "Menu" "3" "5" "6" "4" in sequence before the unit gone to shutdown.


You've mentioned that the bulb has been replaced just last Sept and now it won't come on. The lamp can't be test using the multimeter but you can make a visual inspection to determine its condition. Most of the faulty lamp has an obvious burnt mark. There's a possibility that the symptoms is caused by busted lamp but in your case, if it is a genuine lamp replacement, then high chance that the fault is not the bulb.


You need to check the ballast board but not the high voltage output of it feeding the lamp. No voltage coming out from the power supply board to the ballast board can produced the same symptoms. You have to check the this voltage at connector CJ1, you must get 325V to 340V. Check also the lamp enable at connector CJ3(pin 4) you must get a low voltage upon turning on the set to confirmed that the mainboard giving a signal.


If there's no voltage at CJ1, then the fault is on the power supply board.

If the readings are normal, and still the ballast won't ignite (you can hear a slight snap sound when the ballast board trying to ignite), then you have to replaced it.


Click the link below to order online.


http://bigtvsale.blogge.rs/2011/05/31/discount-replacement-mitsubishi-oem-pwb-ballast-938p178010/


http://www.shopjimmy.com/mitsubishi-938p178010-lamp-ballast.htm


Please let me know if you need further assistance.


Good luck and take care!


Kind Regards,


Mjsazon

hi, a word of warning , the ignition voltage of a metal halide( grow light ) is many thousands of volts .
the first thing to try is a replacement bulb , next is replace the ignitor ( usually a small block with 3 terminals ).
a metal halide lamp can often look to be perfect when infact its internally blown .
hope this helps

If you have a voltage meter you can pull the bulb out and check for continuity by placing the probes on the power plugs of the bulb. If you have continuity the bulb should be good, and it may be the lamp ballast.

YES THE POWER BEING SHUT OFF THEN ON WITHOUT THE LIGHT SWITCH BEING INTHE OFF POSITION BLEW YOUR LIGHT BULB. IT COULDN'T BE ANYTHING ELSE UNLESS YOUR CORD HAS A FUSE. CORDS WITHA FUSE ARE FAT AND ODDLEY SHAPED AT THE END U PLUG INTO THE LIGHT.