Without any mishandling, except maybe lack of use, my G-2 no longer closes completely. It will open up and takes normal pictures, but I can no longer put the cap on the camera. The lens sticks out about a fourth of an inch or less. Please help.
I had the same problem with my G1 and it seems that with time and with usage of the cam it ends up doing this, i solved my problem moving it back and forth but slowly and then try to push it softly ..then turn it of and on ..and it will go in.., suddenly it will happen the same thing again and again.. because mine still does that some times
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You might not be able to use that switch in your configuration. It appears that the power was run to the light and only two wires were run back to the switch. The old switch only closes to connect those two wires completing the circuit at the lighting fixture, but you need a hot and a neutral to operate the electronic switch that you have.
Hello- You are on the right track. The hinge assemblies are 'sprung' or bent out of shape. Replacing them is pretty easy, so you can do it yourself. Four screws on each side. Be careful, these springs can snap closed and bite ya. Use the little pins that come with the new set to lock hinge so this doesn't happen. Let me know if this info helps- have more if needed- Thanks- Ed
Pitch it. There does not appear to be a firmware update. That would be the only thing that would have a chance of fixing this. Otherwise, the controller board is shot. The cost of repair is more than the printer, buy a new one.
follow this to reinitialize
1. Push the “MAIN” power switch to the “OFF” position.
The “MAIN” power switch is located on the instrument panel, left of the
2. Confirm doors are closed, lights are OFF, and the key is out of the ignition.
3. Disconnect the negative (–) battery terminal and wait 60 seconds.
4. Reconnect the negative (–) battery terminal.
5. Push the “MAIN” power switch to the “ON” position and wait 3 seconds.
6. Push the “DOOR R” switch to open the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely opened.
7. Push the “DOOR R” switch to close the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely closed.
8. Push the “DOOR R” switch to open the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely opened.
9. Push the “DOOR R” switch to close the right door and wait 3 seconds after the door
is completely closed.
10. Push the “DOOR L” switch to open the left door and wait 3 seconds after the door is
11. Push the “DOOR L” switch to close the left door and wait 3 seconds after the door is
12. Push the “DOOR L” switch to open the left door and wait 3 seconds after the door is
13. Push the “DOOR L” switch to close the left door and wait for the door to
With ignition in the “ON” position and both power sliding doors in the fully closed
position, the “PWR DOOR” indicator on the dash should NOT illuminate.
14. Confirm proper operation of both doors using the dash, B-pillar switches, and the
I have the exact same situation, except my model (139.53607) is older than yours and does not even have an LED. Remotes only works after after shop light goes off (5 minutes or so), but wall button works fine. Did call Sears Service and the tech told me the logic board is probably shot. Don't want to waste money on service call so I'll probably have to buy a completely new unit in the Spring and go through the winter without the use of a remote.
The recycle time using flash gets worse pretty quickly if you are using the onboard flash. The delay is pretty much inversly proportional to the remaining charge in the battery. I.E. the less charge, the longer the time. This happens with any camera.
You might check the time with fresh batteries (or freshly charged) and then after maybe 20 shots or so. I would not find 5 seconds atypical, but 10 seconds sounds like you are pretty close to dead battery.
If you get 10 seconds at the start of a fresh battery, then you may have a problem. Also, capacitor charge time can vary from capacitor to capacitor and a 1-2 second variation between camera flash units, either onboard or off board is probably normal. Age of capacitor can also have an effect.
I had similar symptoms as well until it finally died:
1) First started eating batteries like crazy, especially standard AA and rechargeables. The CRV3 seemed to work a bit longer.
2) One day out of nowhere the autofocus stopped working. I replaced the batteries and it worked again for 10 shots. Then the autofocus stopped working and battery died (with the lens stuck open). Pressing power, the LCD backlight flashes on, the LED in the view finder blinks, and the lens motor makes noise. Then nothing just stuck open.
3) Again new batteries and was able to close lens, take a few pictures and dead again with lens stuck open - same problem in 2.
4) Replaced the batteries a couple times and was able to get a shot or two off, and now its complete stuck open, even with brand new batteries - with same problem in 2 it just won't turn on.
I finally sent it to Samsung the week of Christmas. I called Friday 1/7/05 to check and had to leave a voicemail. They called back Monday 1/10/05 to let me know they recieved it and that I should call back Thursday to check its status.