I have a two kicker competition 12" subwoofers in a box in my trunk, connected to a 1200 watt, 4 ohm sony xplod amp...and I do not believe either of these to be the problem in the rumbling(exhaust like) sound coming from my speakers, even when the volume is down. Music plays as normal, this extra noise is just bothering me...I believe it may be the ground wire...I have the ground wire screwed down in my trunk underneath the carpet...would ground wire placement be a good thing to try?
I had the same problem with my kickers, as it turned out it was my head unit. my amp had sent a shock back to the head unit through the rca cables. there isnt a way to fix this. if you are one of the lucky ones to have more than one set of RCAs out of the back of your radio, try switching them. as for me i had to replace my head unit, because i only had one set of RCAs. best of luck
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There is also the possiblity of a ground potential problem you could try running a wire from the ground point of the amp to the rear of the head unit, in this way both components have the same ground potential....second , I would take the ground loose a the point you have connected to the vehicles chassis , i then would prepare the surface by sanding a quarter <25 cent piece> area and using two washers and nylon insert lock nut, and a bolt to securely fasten your ground ,,,,also I would use a grounding wire equal too or 2x teh ga you are using for your power < battery > cable.....and lastly I would reduce the input sensitivity to your amplifier, because if u have them turned up < more sensitive> the amp will amplify abient electrical noise present in your vehicle... if this helps let me know , if it does not let me know...
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wire each sub in series inside the box, this makes them each 8 ohms, then run them parallel from the box to the amp bridged. this will give you 500 watts at 4 ohms
Most likely cause is heat. The clearances behind the radio are often not sufficient to provde the proper air coolling that the higher power radios need. The heat sinks on the rear of the radio require a certain amount of air flow to dissipate the heat generated under high load conditions. If you add summer heat to the equation, you can have the radio going into thermal cutout to protect it circuity.
First are they in the same box? If so and they are sharing the same air space running one amp to both is best andwill perform better. One woofer could be over powering the other and or you could have a woofer problem. A lso your wiring coul be problem. When amp is bridged it changes the OHM reading and output your other woofer may not be rated at or able to handle a lower Ohm rating also it coul blow that woofer if it hasn't already hapened . Be careful. check woofers independently for operation and check the non performing woofer on an unbridged power source or amp. Hope this helps. Write back if not.
off the same amp? you have two way different sounding speakers man. you can buy 2 identical speakers from the same company and brand and series and they will play differently every time. you have 2 speakers with nothing in common so you will hear a difference and maybe interference because of the different ohm levels.
You need to wire them according to the limitations of your amp you can pull a 1 ohm overall load just by connecting all of your coils in parallel- or you can get an overall load of 4 ohms by wiring each sub individually in a series configuration which will yield a 12 ohm load per sub -and then wire the 3 sets in parallel which will bring your ohms back down to 4. You can do a lot with that many coils it depends on your amp really-ideally a 1 ohm stable class d mono amp that is 1000-1500 watts rms would knock the **** outta those things JL is the good stuff.
Bridging your amplifier @ 4 ohm will yield the most power.... with the subwoofers you have.
You must wire them in Parallel.
Positive on both subwoofers to + on amplifier.
Negative on both subwoofers to - on amplifier.
The lowest impedence possible with 8 ohm woofers is 4 ohms.
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If the subs are going to be wired at 2 ohms you will need a class d amp that is 1200 watts at two ohms rms i would say you should probably be running zero gauge wire and at least a two fared cap
That's not a 1000w amp. It's a 400 watt amp when loaded to it's lowest rated load. If you have one speaker per channel (the only safe load if you have single 4 ohm coil speakers), you're only getting 165 watts/speaker. It's probably distorted because you're driving it to clipping.
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