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Question about Intel D850MV Motherboard

2 Answers

Motherboard Problem? I have the D850MV mobo with four 64MB RDRAMs installed and an Inno3D video card, Maxtor 40GB HDD and DVD R/RW drive. When I plug it into the power outlet the HDD indicator lights up, the cooling fan of the switching power supply turns on but there is no activity and no display on the monitor. I opened up the case and checked the power supply voltages and all were correct. I noticed that the SMD LEDs on the board are also lit but the CPU fan is not rotating. I can hear a faint buzzing sound within the vicinity of the P4 processor. The power switch has no function as well as the reset switch. Could this be a motherboard problem?

Posted by Anonymous on

  • 3 more comments 
  • Anonymous Apr 01, 2007

    Yes, the fan is plugged in to its fan header on the motherboard. I can feel the CPU heatsink becoming warm. The video card heatsink also becomes warm although its on-board fan does function. The DVD drive spins and I am able to open and close the tray.

    Upon plugging the unit into the power outlet it should not power up until the power button is pressed but in this case it indicates power even without pressing the power switch.

    Does the motherboard shutdown its functions if the CPU fan does not rotate? It can monitor this by way of its TACH pin.

  • Anonymous Apr 07, 2007

    I checked the CPU fan and found out that it is defective. It is the A80856-002 (F08G-12B2S1 05AC1) Intel fan made by Nidec.

    To check if the board will power up I installed a fan from a PIII Celeron (109X1512H2036). When I turned on the power the fan rotated but still the board hung out. This fan is rated at about 4000rpm and the original one at about 2900rpm.

    Is the RPM difference the cause of the motherboard hanging up since it looks for a specific RPM as programmed in the BIOS?

  • Anonymous Apr 08, 2007

    Thank you very much for the reply. I only did this to see if the motherboard would turn on once it sees a RPM signal. The processor did get warm and then hot as I felt the heat sink but I promptly took out the power within 15 seconds of testing it. I have two tubes of TECH SPRAY 1977-DP Heat Sink Compound but I will check out the Arctic Silver line.

    Handling the hardware is not a problem for me. It's just that this is the first time that I've encountered this type of problem and I'm very thankful to the guys who are very much willing to help and share what they know.

  • Anonymous Apr 10, 2007

    I didn't really know if the motherboard needs to see a RPM signal, thanks for the info.

    I already replaced the fan with another unit that is specifically for a P4 up to 3GHz but still there is nothing. No POST, no beeps. Just the Power ON LED and the fans.

    This might really be a motherboard problem. I'm about ready to give up on this.

  • Anonymous Sep 05, 2007

    The capacitors visually check out okay although ESR testing will be the best approach to this. Anyway, is it possible that this might be a BIOS chip problem?



2 Answers


It seems that the problem may not be in the fan or related to heat. Even with a "hot" old P4 it takes about 1-2 minutes before it reaches any higher temperatures, this since it's not having any load until you boot into windows. I think it might be faulty or leaking c apacitors - a common problem on older boards. If you look at the capacitors on the top - are they bulgy or flat ? if not perfectly flat they might be faulty and thus giving you the symptoms you describe.

Posted on Apr 30, 2007



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Chances are that until you solve the problem with the CPU fan, the system will not boot. Is the fan plugged in? Most CPU fans plug into a special connector (known as a "fan header") on the motherboard (the connector is often labeled "CPU FAN"); CHECK CAREFULLY to be certain that the fan is still plugged in properly... If you can get the fan to work again, the system just might boot up and begin working again... if you can't get the fan working properly again, buy a suitable replacement; whatever else you do, do NOT try to run the computer without a working CPU fan. Good luck; hope this helps you sort out the problem...

Posted on Apr 01, 2007

  • Anonymous Apr 07, 2007

    The fan RPM will vary from one fan to the next; as long as you have a suitable fan installed (use one specifically designed to cool your Pentium 4, as they run MUCH hotter than the old P-III / Celeron CPUs), you shouldn't have a problem.

    Right now, I think your CPU is getting too hot; the motherboard is designed to shut down the CPU in order to avoid destroying it. The CPU is thermally protected internally, and the motherboard is designed to cut power to the CPU core when it overheats; I doubt that the P-III / Celeron you've installed can provide adequate cooling for your P-IV... you really need to install a QUALITY P-IV fan before you can take this any further. Once you have a suitable fan installed, you'll have eliminated the chance of overheating the CPU core, and you can then test the system to see if there are any other problems with it...

    Remember to install a THIN layer of quality heat-sink compound (what some people refer to as "thermal grease", which isn't actually grease at all); I prefer Arctic Silver Ceramique:

    Check these links for information on how to apply it properly:

    Simply choose the type of CPU you will be installing the thermal compound onto, then read the .PDF file for instructions...

    Lastly, take your time; if you don't understand what you're doing, load Google and prepare to read until your eyeballs bleed...

    Let us know if you have any questions, or if you encounter any problems that Google can't help you with...

  • Anonymous Apr 08, 2007

    Thanks for the latest update; I hesitate to offer semi-technical advice when I don't know the skill level of the person I'm advising, but since you're comfortable applying heat-sink compound, let's put our heads together and see if we can nail this down.

    Just FYI, the motherboard shouldn't "need" to detect an RPM signal. Years ago, I repaired motherboards to pay the bills, and your MAIN problem seems to be the temps being generated by the P4, which is a HOT chip. If the motherboard didn't provide over-temp protection, you'd easily see core breach of the CPU within 15 seconds, which would turn your P4 into an expensive paperweight. The fact that the system IS shutting down, along with the operation of the vidcard fan, makes me think that there is probably nothing really wrong with the motherboard at all... I could be wrong, but from what you've described, the motherboard is protecting the CPU from meltdown, and solving the problem with CPU cooling should get you a lot closer to actually booting the system...

    Keep in mind that you want a THIN layer of HSC; the brand isn't as critical to success as proper application. I use and recommend Ceramique mostly because it is non-conductive; I never know when a client will remove or replace a HSF. If they happen to smear the HSC onto the motherboard, Ceramique won't cause the problems a conductive compound will inflict...

    When you get the chance, reset the CMOS; you might have corrupted settings that are compounding this problem. Once the CMOS is back to the default settings, you'll have eliminated one more possible cause of this snafu...

    Install a good cooling solution for your CPU; let me know if you still have problems afterwards. If the system still won't boot, we'll dig a bit deeper...



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