Remove the little rubber feed on the bottom of the base (they might be glued a bit so be careful not to rip them). This will reveal 4 phillips head screws...remove them...this will open the base and reveal the back site of the rotor. In the middle you will see a turban blade like wheel with a large flat tip screw. Wedge a large screwdriver between the teeth of the old clutch so that when you turn the flat tip screw it will stop rotating the other end. Turn the screw with some force to the right to losen the clutch...then do the reverse to get the new one on tight...put everything back together and there you have it.
Keep in mind that this might void your warrenty if you still have some on it.
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Hello There are two type of fittings for this gear. In some models it will be push in type, and for others it will be screw type. If your model has push type one, just pull out it from the shaft. You may have to excert a strong force to pull it out. If it is screw type, you have to open its lower lid by unscrewing its secrews, hold the cooling fan and hold the gear at the top, twist it in 'CLOCKWAYS' direction, [not counterclockwise], to screw it out. OK.
Once you receive the parts, unscrew the collar from the bottom of the jar, and the old gasket and blade assembly will pop out - sometimes you have to peel the gasket apart from blender jar, but not always.
You can call Waring and they can send you a parts breakdown showing the order the parts need to be in. If you still have problems they can go over the assembly with you on the phone or direct you to a service center near you to help.
I just figured it out. The key is you need to think in terms of keeping the blades and the large washers separate. Here's what you do.
Thread the blade through the glass and use the white rubber gaskets against the glass and the stainless gaskets against the hardware. Then tighten the whole enchilada to the blender with the main nut (that goes on the bottom outside of the blender). Then once that's nice and tight tighten the flange that catches the blender teeth to the remaining portion of the protruding threads. Make sure you use the copper colored gasket first then the stainless washer then the stainless flange. Tighten that real good and you should be good to go.
To check if you've done it right spin the flange. If the blades spin independent of everything else you're good to blend away!
Exact same problem. Turned out the threaded shaft that holds the blades was broken so tightening the nut on the top doesn't really help. Just ordered a new blade assembly from www.smallappliance.com. Mine was the Waring 007314W Blender Cutting Assembly but there is also an older one for earlier models. Don't know if it will work yet (assume it will), but cheaper than buying a new blender.