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Posted on Dec 18, 2008
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Monitor 2400 heater will shut down when I run My generator

We had a power outage the other day, 4 days total . And when I hooked up my new Homelite 5700 watt generator my monitor 2400 heater it would shut down when it went to go into high. It would do its regular start up and the shut down like it had lost power. It runs fine on a smaller 2400 watt generator I had borrowed or when it is on the regular house current. I was told I need a line conditioner with "pure sine wave". But they are very expensive on the ones I have looked at. Does anyone know if it has to be a pure sine wave or would a modified sine wave UPS/ line condition work. Or anything else I could try.

  • cruisn69 Dec 20, 2008

    Just to let you know I went to Wal Mart and purchased a RCA low profile flat power conditioner for $11.88. The best thing it worked. I ran My Monitor Heater for over 30 minutes on my generator with no problems

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    Have tried shutting off.

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Curtis Richner

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  • Posted on Dec 19, 2008
Curtis Richner
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Joined: Jul 20, 2008
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A UPS unit might work. Electronics need steady clean power.

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Since you had a power outage, you possibly have a circuit board issue. Try unplugging the heater for a couple of minutes then plugging it back in. If that doesn't help then a new circuit board may be needed. There are 2 different circuit boards. One main circuit board and one for the display. I hate to inform you of this but this are both very expensive. The main board will cost somewhere around $400. I'm not sure of the cost of the display board. If you have someone replace them, have them do to one and see if it fixes it. If it doesn't, put the old one back and replace the other, that way you can narrow it down to 1 or the other. There is a place in Ashville, NC that will repair monitor circuit boards. http://www.mathiselectronics.com/product-services/Monitor-heater.html Go to this link and it will give you prices for the repairs. They guarantee their work for 3 years. If you contact them mention you heard about them from Niten's Heater Service. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
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Some manufacturers tend to fudge the numbers and throw around the 'peak' output power as continuous and it isn't. Peak (or surge) is the power a generator will handle as starting current (for example) for a motor and can be 120-140% of the actual continuous power.
Check you owner's manual, find the detailed specs which will normally contain the maximum continuous current rating. If it is listed separately for 120 and 220 (240) volts look for separate current ratings for each output.
By multiplying the current(s) times the output voltages you can find the total resistive output into a purely resistive load such as an electric heater.
For example: 120VAC X 20 A=2400 watts. If other outputs are available such as 220VAC, multiply its current rating: 10A. or 2200 watts Adding those two results 2400 2200=4600 watts will give you the rated power of a unit.
You can also recognize stupid power claims if the engine's horsepower is given. One (US) HP = ~746 watts. Since no generator is 100% efficient, its a fair rule of thumb to guesstimate the available electrical power at ~70% of the engine's rating (although, this is often also wildly optimistic). 10 HP X .7= ~746 X 7 or a bit over 5,000 watts.
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If it continues to do this, that card is probably toast.
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