Some months ago I fell over my K-G6 at nite. Later the handle appeared looser than normal. Gradually, it started having the possessed yank-you-off-your-feet feel. This week I carefully disassembled the chrome plated cowling cover the handle goes thru to look inside. Two top machine screws when the front hood is lifted, two rear screws in the plastic, a single center screw near the drive-neutral toggle and a single screw for the power cord strain relief. I removed the handle by taking the two large screws off. This allowed the cowling to come free. From the rear, on the left side is a lever with a two pronged fork pointing up. The fork is supposed to stick into the receiver mechanism which is part of the handle slide. I get it: as the user pushes and pulls on the handle while vacuuming, the handle assembly slides back and forth and transmits commands thru the mechanical linkage to the drive mechanism. My fork was not engaged in the receiver. The reason was 3 screws on the left side of the brass block assembly were loose and the small black wedge was partially crushed. I dissassembled, cleaned, oiled and replaced the pieces and cinched down the 5 machine screws holding both brass blocks and the wedge. When I did this, I noticed the fork engaged with the receiver. Now reassembled, my Kirby runs pretty good and no longer feels possessed. And yes the roller height does make a difference on the drive assist reaction.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This sounds like a Kirby vacuum cleaner. The n is for neutral and d is for drive. When you are using it the switch should be in drive. For moving it around, say into another room or closet, put it in neutral. If you turn the vacuum off with the switch in drive, the rear wheels will be locked.
I sold vacuums for almost 20 yrs and the Kirby gets lots of complaints. The transmission that it has in it breaks as your has and they are costly.The best thing to do would be to take the maching to the local vacuum store(eg. sewing and vacuum are often in the same store).Bring it to a used vac store and they all repair kirby and thay can give you the best advice. I dont recommend going to kirby as thay will spend four hours at your house trying to sell you a newer model and they have not changed enough to get another one in hopes it will be betrter. Good luck
I have never touched a Kirby vacuum before and my wife had the same issue. The neutral/drive pedal just fell out so I figured I would give it a shot to see if I could fix it and quickly figured out the 3 screws in the bottom plate for the drive unit wasn't the answer.
I was able to figure things out out after I found a parts list with diagrams at the follow web site and address:
Vac Parts Warehouse.com http://www.vacpartswarehouse.com/category-s/2821.htm
The two parts involved are: 13. Bracket Cam Assembly Neutral Drive Pedal 557689A 16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive G6 558499A
Here's how to get to a point that you can get these two parts in/out of the machine.
- Remove bag and fill tube from handle and main unit - Remove floor nozzle assembly - Remove the handle via the two screws at the handle fork plate (these have loctite on them so needed a socket wrench with torex bits to get them out). - Remove the plastic rear scuff plate vie the screw with the power cord anchor and screw by the Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive. Note release plastic tab in slot in the center and lift from the back and then over the base where the handle attaches.
I did not do this as I removed the the power drive assembly so I could figure out how to put the dive assembly back together. The pressed on arm that drives the cam assembly had pulled of the pedal shaft so this also made it easier to fish out the parts and experiment on positioning the arm in the right spot . I found the arm and a spring washer inside. Note – continue disassembly below if bracket cam assembly will not come out as it is easier to work with once the drive assembly is removed.
Remove the screw on the bottom plate that attaches the Bracket Cam Assembly and slide the Pedal Cam. Then the plastic back panel and the cam assembly should slide out if you lift up on it. Note that the screw is the only one with a star lock washer on it. Also note that this entire assembly is the only way that the parts are sold and it includes plastic back plate and metal cam assembly as. I when down the path to repair the existing assembly so I needed to take the power drive out The part was 16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive G6 558499A at Vac Parts Warehouse.com. The one listed on the website said it was for a G6 even though the parts listing is for a G5 so I don't know....
To continue to disassemble and take the power drive assembly out: - Remove the 4 screws from the Cover Shell assembly - the metal top part. You do not need to remove the hinged Headlight Cap that is attached to it. - Remove the 4 screw from the bracket assembly that has the handle attachment and forward/reverse switch. It attached by two wires. I only disconnect one and swung it to the side. - Snap off the the on/off switch and disconnect from the Actuating Rod Foot Pedal to Power Switch. - Remove the 3 screw from the bottom plate of the power drive assembly. - Remove the drive belt. - The power drive assembly will now drop out the bottom.
I just put the spring washer and arm back on the shaft and reassembled. I'll see how long that lasts before before buying the new part. Update: this fix did not last long. Use red Loctite or super glue to attach cam to shaft so it doesn’t pull out if you want to avoid buying the new assembly. Note that the cam must be aligned so that when the neutral side is pushed the cam will stop in the detent to hold it in place. Must be reassembled in the drive position as that is the default for the drive assembly.
This is an easy fix you do not have to fully remove transmission it does help to lower it down by removing screws. Then try to get the right angle and realign the splines I have fixed mine twice, the second time I put thread locker on it and have not had any problem. Steve
This is quite complicated but I'll try and simplify this for you:
If this is a Panasonic upright then there are two drive belts as you know. Once you take off the sole plate (where the beater bar is) by undoing screws and the beater bar is looking at you, you would have to take off the smaller belt motor pulley first before putting on a new larger drive belt. If the smaller belt is still intact and you only need to replace the larger belt, you'll still have to take off both belts to put on the new drive belt.
Motor pulley belt has to be taken off first then the old drive belt, then grasp the beater and slide on new larger drive belt before having to attach the motor pulley belt and then the larger belt onto the motor pulley. Once all belts have been attached ensure that the beater bar is pushed in correctly before you screw the sole plate back on.
No, I can't solve it. However, if you go to SearsPartsDirect.com you can find diagrams for this vacuum. There are three. You can click on "View full size", highlight the image, and print it by saying "Print selection" in the Print dialog box.
Perhaps by looking at how the thing is put together you can begin to figure out where the trouble is. You can also order some of the parts for this venerable machine (but not all of them.)