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Posted on Aug 12, 2012
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What is the resistance of the 10W resisters R11 and R12 on the behringer PMH 880s powered mixer.

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  • Posted on Aug 12, 2012
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Fred Yearian

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  • Posted on May 25, 2010

SOURCE: I have a behringer pmp 880s powered mixer it has a

Please note that there are many chips in the Behringer devices and we can't guess what the chip might be since we have no idea where it is in the unit.

HINT: There are MANY circuits in common in the lines of music equipment. See if the circuit board has a part number as well. The board may be in common with other PMP boards.

Also note the chip location, such as IC12 and also tell the type, Thru hole or surface mount, and the number of leads and ANY number on the chip.

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Fred Yearian

  • 5603 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2010

SOURCE: Behringer PMH 880S

Oh yes... I have repaired several of these supplies.
For the IGBT's use APT28GA60BD15 which are pricey at $9.28 from Digikey.com (still lower than alternative sources. Getting the heatsinks off, one of which has a thermal sensor as well is a real pain! Transformers don't fail...
The C2655's are really 2SC2655-Y and those I get from Allied. The mating 2SA1020-Y I believe is available either at Digikey.com or Mouser.com.
You will LIKELY find the IR2153 chip is blown and that I had to get from Allied. Usually one of the PL4148 surface mount gate drive speed up diodes is blown either short or open (D24 and D25).
Often transistor T9 is gonzo (BC856MTTCT).
Often the 10 or 22 ohm wirewound charging resistors are blown open. I use TWW10J20RE as replacemens for those. Be sure and use silicone to help support them.
Now when you are done with that, you need to find WHY the supply failed. It is either because a ceramic cap across the 85 volts failed OR one of the power amps arced out. If the unit has the HCA2400 amp in it I will tell you what happens: In the vicinity of the SPF9640 MOSFET and a big surface mounted cap will be an arc between layers of the multi-layer circuit board. This shorts and fries the IRFP250 MOSFET and BOTH SFP9640 MOSFETS. The repair of this is major involving carving out the "cancer" and reinsulating with epoxy and replacing blown carved out traces with hookup wire. The proceedure I can't document here, but failure to correct this will result in power supply failing again.
FOR YOUR SAFETY ONLY work on the supply using an isolation transformer. Use a 150 Watt lamp in series for testing to act as a fuse so you don't pop the supply again. DISCHARGE the 85 volt outputs BEFORE plugging the amps back on the power supply.

Testimonial: "excellent response, covers the question and likely cause of power supply failure together with helpful hints on how to repair and where to get replacement parts without breaking the bank. many thanks fredy2"

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Oh yes... I have repaired several of these supplies.
For the IGBT's use APT28GA60BD15 which are pricey at $9.28 from Digikey.com (still lower than alternative sources. Getting the heatsinks off, one of which has a thermal sensor as well is a real pain! Transformers don't fail...
The C2655's are really 2SC2655-Y and those I get from Allied. The mating 2SA1020-Y I believe is available either at Digikey.com or Mouser.com.
You will LIKELY find the IR2153 chip is blown and that I had to get from Allied. Usually one of the PL4148 surface mount gate drive speed up diodes is blown either short or open (D24 and D25).
Often transistor T9 is gonzo (BC856MTTCT).
Often the 10 or 22 ohm wirewound charging resistors are blown open. I use TWW10J20RE as replacemens for those. Be sure and use silicone to help support them.
Now when you are done with that, you need to find WHY the supply failed. It is either because a ceramic cap across the 85 volts failed OR one of the power amps arced out. If the unit has the HCA2400 amp in it I will tell you what happens: In the vicinity of the SPF9640 MOSFET and a big surface mounted cap will be an arc between layers of the multi-layer circuit board. This shorts and fries the IRFP250 MOSFET and BOTH SFP9640 MOSFETS. The repair of this is major involving carving out the "cancer" and reinsulating with epoxy and replacing blown carved out traces with hookup wire. The proceedure I can't document here, but failure to correct this will result in power supply failing again.
FOR YOUR SAFETY ONLY work on the supply using an isolation transformer. Use a 150 Watt lamp in series for testing to act as a fuse so you don't pop the supply again. DISCHARGE the 85 volt outputs BEFORE plugging the amps back on the power supply.
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If neither speaker is working, that is bad however make sure all your trims and sliders are right to send audio through. Some have a standby switch.

This probably has an HCA2400 amp board in it and those can burn up for various reasons including loose speaker cables.
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