To repair a charging port you will need the following:
- fine tip soldering iron (Weller 15 watt)
- Dremel tool with cut off wheel
- De-soldering Braid
- Torx T5 screwdriver
- small flat bladed screwdriver (optional)
- Diagonal cutters
- small hemostat or fine tweezers
- Panavise, helping hands or similar bench top holding device.
Take off the back cover and remove the battery.
Next, whip out that Torx T5 and remove the screws holding the phone together. On this one, there were only four to remove.
With the screws out, gently pull the phone apart. The lower half of this Motorola clips together, so I gently worked around the edges with a small flat screwdriver until it came apart.
The SIM card board easily separates from the phone via the flat SMD connector. Just gently apply pressure near the connector and it comes right off.
Next, the flat ribbon cable needs to be detached in the same manner, and the main PC board removed from the phone. It should pull right out once the cable is disconnected.
As you disassemble the phone, put each of the pieces into a parts bin. Any sort of container will do, but I'd avoid a static generating plastic Tupperware container.
Carefully place the board in your clamp/Panavise/whatever - I had to line up the buttons with the slots in the vise, or I probably would have damaged them when I clamped the board
You'll need a new connector before you can fix anything.
In order to check the condition of the pins, clip the two tabs that hold the rear shielding on to the connector with a pair of diagonal cutters.
With the rear shield removed, we can access the rear pins - Unlike the front, everything looks pretty good. The advantage of surface mount parts is that they don't require much solder to hold together. Unfortunately, when you're replacing a surface mount part, a small amount of solder can keep you from removing the part without damaging the board.
To keep from burning this foam seal, peel it back and stick it off to the side.
Enter the rotary tool. Sliced the top off of the connector by cutting the sides lengthwise.
Next, cut across the center of the connector. The bent pins should be gently cut loose and the upper half of the plastic connector will probably fall apart. The shielding on the sides should be cut to allow each leg to be removed individually. (Be careful not to cut the PC board below!)
Working from one side to the other, heat up the solder pad on each pin. Then use some tweezers to grip each pin of the connector. (I used a small pair of alligator forceps) If the solder is hot enough, the surface mount pin should come loose with little to no force. It's vitally important to be as gentle as possible with each one. The solder pads on the PC board are very delicate, and easy to pull up if you're not careful. Unfortunately, overheating the pads can also cause them to pull up. So be quick about it!
With the delicate pins out of the way, I carefully cut apart the remaining plastic and removed it.
Finally, the remaining legs of the shielding were heated and removed from the board.
After the new port is aligned (double check the pins in the rear!) solder one of the shielding legs to the board. Double check the pin alignment again, and solder the other legs. Now the port should be solidly mounted.
Next, the pins on the new port need to be soldered. The super fine tip on my 15 watt Weller pencil made this easy. Alternatively, you can use a wider tip to solder things and go back over the pins with de-soldering braid to remove any solder bridges. If you forgot to remove the rear shield, you'll have one hell of a time soldering the pins. On this particular phone, the metal shielding behind the port made it impossible to access the pins without removing the rear shielding.