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Question about Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

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My Fisher Paykel washer will not let cold water in. The cold water works from the hose but when I connect it to the machine it won't put cold water in the machine. The hot water works just fine.

Posted by bkaytr53 on

1 Answer

keith jones

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  • Fisher and P... Master
  • 747 Answers

Faulty cold water solenoid replace with new one

Posted on Apr 21, 2018

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2071 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW712 cold water dont work???

Just click below;

There's an error code on the digital display

It doesn't work at all
It won't drain
It doesn't spin
It doesn't agitate
It's noisy
It leaks
It's off balance
There's no hot water
There's no cold water
It's slow to fill
There's no water at all
The clothes are wet after spinning
The cycle doesn't advance
There's no delicate or regular spin or agitate
It's overfilling
It's underfilling
The water temperature is incorrect


DON'T FORGET TO RATE;

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

Anonymous

  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Cold Water Not Flowing

you can swap the hot and cold valves over and see if this fixes the problem as it sound like your cold valve is faulty but not the hot valve.

Cheers

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

Anonymous

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: GW712 Fisher & Paykel Washer.

THE INLET VALVE FILTER COULD BE BLOCKED TURN WATER OFF UNDO PIPE AND CHECK IF NOT COULD BE A PROBLEM WITH VALVE ! IS YOUR WATER PRESSURE OK

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

SOURCE: My Fisher & Paykel Ecosmart Washing machine

Darn, well it is either the actual Solenoid, & Valve, or the Controller. I would check, both
www.casa.co.nz/.../SmartDrive-Parts-MW511,MWC11,GW511,512,611-25p.pdf
appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5943.0;...

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you for the quick answer. I'll check both in the morning."

paulus649

  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: My fisher and paykel smartdrive 058 which has a

i am pretty sure its the main board, the easiest way to solve the problem is replace a the main board with a secondhand board, as well as obtaining a bag of spare parts, out a good working machine with faulty seals. You may have faulty seals if the machine is dormant for 3 years. I advise people never use washing powder in their washing machines, just use liquid detergent like Cold Power. the washing powder cakes up in the machine and when harden can be very abrasive and destroy the seals.

Posted on Dec 07, 2011

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c...
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Fisher and Paykel double drawer dishwasher dead Hi Problem with a Fisher & Paykel DD60DH17 double drawer dishwasher if you can help? I think it's 10 years old or so - maybe a bit more. It packed up and the top drawer LEDs indicated fault code E4. Bottom drawer indicated fault U4. E4 means heater element fault U4 means the bottom drawer won't function due to a fault in the other drawer. Took out the top drawer and got to the heater plate which looked clean as a whistle. Disconnected the 7 pin connector and tested the resistances. The main large element (pins 1 and 2 starting from the left tested as 6 Ohms. Then there's a smaller element in the middle that leads to pins 4 and 5 on the connectors and that read 10 Ohms. That all seemed reasonable. Then I found a youtube video that said how to test from the control panel inside the front panel of the top drawer so I disconnected the 7 pin connector from the control board and tested from there. It says to read the pins from right to left - so I did. It said testing temperature sensor, measure between pins 1 & 2 and I should get about 10 K Ohms - note the K Ohms. I got 10.68 so near enough. Then testing dropper resistor (whatever that is) between pins 4 & 5 the video said I should get about 24 Ohms - I got 97.4. Then testing Element track - video said I should get 25 Ohms and I got 52.5. Bear in mind the video was a USA video so for a 110V model and this is a UK model so 220v which might explain some discrepancies, these results all seem OK in my limited experience. So I have a feeling it's not the heat plate element and don't want to spend 113 pounds on a new one without being sure. But - the plot thickens. Between testing the actual plate element and the second round of tests from the panel, I put it all back together to keep the kitchen tidy then watched the video and prepared for testing from the front. After I reassembled everything the first time, I took the front panel off and found several little wires burned badly - these wires feed the various valves or servos that power the salt and rinse aid dispensers and their LED. 2 were burned through and the other 4 or so were hanging by a thread so I left them for the night to return again with some repair stuff - refitting the front panel for neatness. I did turn the machine on and off several times before I left just to check it hadn't miraculously fixed itself - no change, the same fault lights. I returned tonight and before anything else, turned it on at the wall switch and there was a small pop that sounded like it came from the back of the machine - but I can't be sure. The machine then showed no lights at all. But I checked the power sockets and plug and all was OK and there is a very faint ticking noise coming from the rear of the machine - very faint. But this indicates power is getting to the machine from the mains. I then turned it off, unplugged it and did the resistance tests at the control board connectors as described above. Now I'm stumped and have reassembled it for neatness but am out of ideas. Research seems to indicate there is no fuse or breaker in the machine and I'm not sure if the power goes in and straight to the control board or if there is a weak / breaking point in between. A control board here is about 200 pounds so don't want to but that either if that's unlikely to be the issue. Any ideas please? Thanks Mark

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