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My Fisher Paykel washer will not let cold water in. The cold water works from the hose but when I connect it to the machine it won't put cold water in the machine. The hot water works just fine.

Posted by bkaytr53 on

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keith jones

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  • 747 Answers

Faulty cold water solenoid replace with new one

Posted on Apr 21, 2018

5 Related Answers


  • 2071 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW712 cold water dont work???

Just click below;

There's an error code on the digital display

It doesn't work at all
It won't drain
It doesn't spin
It doesn't agitate
It's noisy
It leaks
It's off balance
There's no hot water
There's no cold water
It's slow to fill
There's no water at all
The clothes are wet after spinning
The cycle doesn't advance
There's no delicate or regular spin or agitate
It's overfilling
It's underfilling
The water temperature is incorrect


Posted on Aug 26, 2008


  • 144 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel GWL11 Cold Water Not Flowing

you can swap the hot and cold valves over and see if this fixes the problem as it sound like your cold valve is faulty but not the hot valve.


Posted on Mar 25, 2009


  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: GW712 Fisher & Paykel Washer.


Posted on Jan 12, 2010

SOURCE: My Fisher & Paykel Ecosmart Washing machine

Darn, well it is either the actual Solenoid, & Valve, or the Controller. I would check, both

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

Testimonial: "Thank you for the quick answer. I'll check both in the morning."


  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: My fisher and paykel smartdrive 058 which has a

i am pretty sure its the main board, the easiest way to solve the problem is replace a the main board with a secondhand board, as well as obtaining a bag of spare parts, out a good working machine with faulty seals. You may have faulty seals if the machine is dormant for 3 years. I advise people never use washing powder in their washing machines, just use liquid detergent like Cold Power. the washing powder cakes up in the machine and when harden can be very abrasive and destroy the seals.

Posted on Dec 07, 2011

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Fisher & paykel IWL12 Fault code 12

Your water inlet valve is likely defective. The supply hoses behind the machine lead to the watervalve.

I only have a hose attached to the cold water tap and inlet valve of my Fischer & Paykel top loader washing machine as I only do cold washes, this hadn't been a problem until recently, when th

it could be that the water level got to high and came out of the valve you could try putting a cap on the valve and see if that works and if it does not then it might be a bigger issue.

Fisher and paykel won't let water in but just sensing water level non-stop

Any switch the same size will work there fine,
It must have the three pins,com, nc, no on the switch.

My Fisher Paykel top load aqua smart washer won't

it wont spin if there is water remaining in it,check pump for restrictions or anything jamming it if good replace pump

My fisher paykel top loader won't do a cold wash.

Hi just read your posting.Have you selected cold only?Are the hoses from the taps going to the correct water valve?Cold tap to c on the machine and hot tap to h on the machine.What is the model number of the machine?The model number sticker is on the back of the machine up top.Please reply with additional information and I am sure I can help rectify the fault.Looking forward to your reply/

Water sensing level not working on Fisher & Paykel Eco Intuitive washing machine . The water just keeps filling up until I stop it manually . We can't use the machine to wash clothes as the Service...

Your pressure value switch is malfunction. First thing you can try that is cheap to fix is to try clean the hose that connects to the outer tub. A lot of times there is algae develops after years of washing.

My washer no longer produces cold water, only hot, except for the start of the cycle. The machine will tell me that it's not getting cold water. It doesn't matter whether I set the water temperature at...

It sounds like the fill hoses are inverted. Most of the Fisher washers only fill with cold water after the initial fill. So if the hose are inverted then it will only fill with hot. Beyond this I'm at a loss. Good luck

My washing machine model mw512 will not fill properly on the cold cycle - it just dribbles. I have checked the hose which is fine and the hot works ok also.

this is a sign that the hot/cold mix valve is bad and not opening properly.
the valve is the small plastic part that both hoses go into on the back of the machine,, if you remove the two hoses and the back panel from the machine - the valve is held in place by one little screw. there are four wires that connect to the valve -- make sure you label the hot water wires and the cold water wires. your local appliance repair shop will have this part on hand and they will sell it to you for around 25 dollars.

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Fisher and Paykel double drawer dishwasher dead Hi Problem with a Fisher & Paykel DD60DH17 double drawer dishwasher if you can help? I think it's 10 years old or so - maybe a bit more. It packed up and the top drawer LEDs indicated fault code E4. Bottom drawer indicated fault U4. E4 means heater element fault U4 means the bottom drawer won't function due to a fault in the other drawer. Took out the top drawer and got to the heater plate which looked clean as a whistle. Disconnected the 7 pin connector and tested the resistances. The main large element (pins 1 and 2 starting from the left tested as 6 Ohms. Then there's a smaller element in the middle that leads to pins 4 and 5 on the connectors and that read 10 Ohms. That all seemed reasonable. Then I found a youtube video that said how to test from the control panel inside the front panel of the top drawer so I disconnected the 7 pin connector from the control board and tested from there. It says to read the pins from right to left - so I did. It said testing temperature sensor, measure between pins 1 & 2 and I should get about 10 K Ohms - note the K Ohms. I got 10.68 so near enough. Then testing dropper resistor (whatever that is) between pins 4 & 5 the video said I should get about 24 Ohms - I got 97.4. Then testing Element track - video said I should get 25 Ohms and I got 52.5. Bear in mind the video was a USA video so for a 110V model and this is a UK model so 220v which might explain some discrepancies, these results all seem OK in my limited experience. So I have a feeling it's not the heat plate element and don't want to spend 113 pounds on a new one without being sure. But - the plot thickens. Between testing the actual plate element and the second round of tests from the panel, I put it all back together to keep the kitchen tidy then watched the video and prepared for testing from the front. After I reassembled everything the first time, I took the front panel off and found several little wires burned badly - these wires feed the various valves or servos that power the salt and rinse aid dispensers and their LED. 2 were burned through and the other 4 or so were hanging by a thread so I left them for the night to return again with some repair stuff - refitting the front panel for neatness. I did turn the machine on and off several times before I left just to check it hadn't miraculously fixed itself - no change, the same fault lights. I returned tonight and before anything else, turned it on at the wall switch and there was a small pop that sounded like it came from the back of the machine - but I can't be sure. The machine then showed no lights at all. But I checked the power sockets and plug and all was OK and there is a very faint ticking noise coming from the rear of the machine - very faint. But this indicates power is getting to the machine from the mains. I then turned it off, unplugged it and did the resistance tests at the control board connectors as described above. Now I'm stumped and have reassembled it for neatness but am out of ideas. Research seems to indicate there is no fuse or breaker in the machine and I'm not sure if the power goes in and straight to the control board or if there is a weak / breaking point in between. A control board here is about 200 pounds so don't want to but that either if that's unlikely to be the issue. Any ideas please? Thanks Mark


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