Current drain Can anyone tell me the acceptable current consumption for this model? I have one on my bench that seems very battery hungry, more than any other digital camera I've worked on. Yet the batteries are not getting hot.

Were were told pure nonsense by those mechanics

Forget other folks vehicle problems
All vehicles worldwide have many issues

They can do a Parasitic Current Test -- by leaving all the doors
closed & the key out of the ignition & have an Amp Meter in
either battery cable,then you wait for all modules & relay's to
time out (go to sleep)

IF-- you have a current draw over 50 to 60 Milli-Amps after an
hour --you have to start pulling fuses, to locate the circuit with
a problem & your battery drain

For your Alternator-- there are many tests & ways to do them,so do not assume the shops you went to, are on their game

My guess is that no shop has actually put time into the problem
& there may be many reasons why. That part I won't share with you,as it is not easy in that business dealing with the public, that hate you & the prices you charge.

It sounds like there is something draining your battery such as an alarm. I would start by charging the battery up and checking the bike starts ok. Then totally isolate the battery and wait a few days. Reconnect it, does the bike start? If no, then its a bad battery (just because its new doesnt mean its good).
If you have a multimeter you can use this to find what is causing the problem. This can be acheived by putting it in series with the battery. There will be some current drain, but no more than around 50mA. If you have a larger drain then start by removing one fuse at a time and see if the current drain reduces to an acceptable level.
This should then help identify which circuit is giving you the problem.

If you suspect the alternator, disconnect the 12V line coming directly from the battery and check for current drain. Are you sure the current unit is in ampere (A) and not milliampere (mA)? A 5A current will drain your battery in about an hour. A 5mA current is just about normal considering the parasitic load (radio memory chip, clock, ECM memory circuit, etc.). Try checking your battery. It could be the real culprit.

The charge rate of 14 volt shows that your alternator is responding as it should and is doing its best to recharge the battery. Even with a fully charged battery if you switch on the power hungry electrical items (main headlights, rear window demist heater etc) you should see the alternator respond by pushing out 14+ volts. A low battery will show about 12.2 volts when disconnected. OK you need to find what is draining your battery when the car is switched off. With the car off disconnect the negative terminal and measure the current flowing between the disconnected cable and the negative terminal, it should very very low, just enough to keep the clock running. If you do have residual current flow, remove and return each fuse one at a time and note each time the current reading. Quite quickly you will be able to isolate the circuit that is causing the drain. Often it is a lighting circuit for an interior light that you cannot see....such as a glove box light not going off when the lid closes or the trunk light staying on. These work by a contact switch being opened by coming into contact with a bracket when shut. If for some reason the bracket gets bent or is dislodged then the light stays on.

contact manufacturer with entire model number.back of tv will only tell you current draw when its on.

Since you bench tested the alternator, and the battery has good capacity (hopefully isn't 5 years old or more), the next logical step is to do a leakage test.

Disconnect one of the battery cables (either one, I'd go with the negative one) and insert a 12 volt test light between the battery and ground of your car. Now, any current draw must go through the lamp. If it is lit with "nothing drawing any current" you can now look further for the offending circuit. Usually simple stuff like aftermarket alarm system, trunk light staying on, that sort of thing.

Even try removing fuses one at a time to localize which circuit to check.

Good luck.

I made an electrolizer my Corolla and a smaller unit for my 150cc scooter. I got tons of bubbles so I expected stunning fuel consumption. In the end I chucked them out because they made no difference either to the power or the consumption. Remember, your alternator will be working flat out all the time to keep up with the energy needs and this alone will affect your consumption. Secondly, your engine management system will notice that your car is running leaner and will richen the mixture to compensate. More fuel consumption. You might find that you will put a lot of effort in for little or no return. The only solution for high fuel consumption, apart from a properly tuned car, is a lighter foot.

i have one of those hubs the ac adapter is output +5V, and current 0.2 - 2.5A, inside of connector is pos(+), outside is neg(-), input: 100 - 120 Vac and 0.45A Max

In a variable-load high power device such as a digital camera, the battery level indicator gives a prediction of remaining battery life, based on current rate of consumption. Since different operations consume different amounts of power, the battery gauge may appear inaccurate if changing the operations being performed by the camera, which changes the rate of power consumption.