Question about Scubapro MK17/S555 Regulator

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Scubapro mk 17 slow to move spg needle

HP port on left side of MK 17 flows about 1/4 what right side port flows and SPG takes a minute to reach full pressure or bleed down after turning tank valve off.

Posted by Dan Miklovic on

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Dan Jacobs

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The spg hose has a oriface in it so that if the hose burst you do not lose all your air underwater at once. have your scuba shop test it for proper operation.

Posted on May 16, 2014

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: Extreme loud sound on MK/25

did you check your bulletins from scuba pro ? depending on the actual year of mfg ( you can call scuba pro and give them serial number )
there was a retro fit kit made for the mk 25 first stage of you send me your email i will send the bulletin to you

other wise if you wew working from an earlier service guuide then you would notbe aware of the retro fit kits and pistons some of the earlier schematic will not show you that o ring that you were refering to

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

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Anonymous

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SOURCE: I need to strip down my s555 regulator to find

Check here:
http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/scubapro/Manuals/2.%20Stage/

May not have exactly your model, but something very very similar. Also, keep in mind, the second stage will free-flow as an "overpressure safety" if the first stage is malfunctioning. Check your intermediate pressure (should be ~150). If you can't do this, try your second stage on another first stage (any brand), and try another second stage on your first.

If it is for sure your second stage, check for proper adjustment of demand lever, bent/damaged demand lever or diaphragm plate, or damaged valve seat.

Posted on Jun 27, 2010

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

My toro 17-44HXL model with a B/S 17HP engine stalls when trying to drive horizontally on a slope. It stalls when sloped either right or left side sloping.


The float in the carburetor might not be floating at the right height due to the slope. It's also possible fuel might not be reaching the carburetor as it hates to flow uphill. It's unlikely it has a fuel pump. Hopefully, it has an oil pump (and associated oil filter). Engines without oil pumps don't like inclines very well.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

Jun 18, 2016 | Toro Garden

3 Answers

How to get my zero turn husqvarna to steer straight


could be check valve going bad will have to take shop fix check valve 100.00

Sep 14, 2014 | Husqvarna Zero Turn Mower Z5426

1 Answer

Bleeding a power steering pump on a 1997 toyota avalon.


First, you need to make sure you are using the right fluid. Your system call for Dexron II or Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Other fluids may "cavitate" or "foam" in your system and cause the whining noise you are describing.

Then, when bleeding the system, you need to let the foam settle for half an hour or more between "bleedings".

Start the engine, turn the steering wheel full lock left and right about 3 times. NOTE: When at full lock, hold the wheel there for about 3 seconds before turning in the other direction. (this will force fluid to flow through the pressure relief valve in the pump.) DO NOT hold at full lock for longer than 5 seconds - system damage can occur.

Then shut the engine off and wait for the foam to settle, (about 1/2 hour)then repeat. It may take 4 or 5 times to get all the air out so it doesn't make any more noise. Also note that normal driving of the car does nothing to get the air out. The fluid must be forced through the pressure relief valve to have enough pressure/flow to release the air trapped in the rack and pinion unit.

Feb 03, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I hve a 96 chevy 1500 4wd with brake issues. ABS light is on in the dash. Have replaced both frt calipers, pads, hoses. Replaced rear brakes and drums. Replaced master cylinder. Bled two quarts of...


you may have air trapped in the ABS EHCU. Did you use this procedure?

Bleeding the EHCU

Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required. Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn before bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false trouble codes may be set.
  1. Open the internal bleed valve 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn each.
  2. Install one tool J-39177 on the left bleed stem of the EHCU. Install one tool on the right bleed stem and install the third tool on the combination valve.
  3. Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling if needed.
  4. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down.
  5. Open the left bleeder on the front of the unit. Allow fluid to flow until no air is seen or until the brake pedal bottoms.
  6. Close the left bleeder, then slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.
  7. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6, including the 15 second wait, until no air is seen in the fluid.
  8. Tighten the left internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  9. Repeat Steps 3-7 at the right bleeder on the front of the unit.
  10. When bleeding of the right port is complete, tighten the right internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  11. Remove the 3 special tools.
  12. Check the master cylinder fluid level, refilling as necessary.
  13. Bleed the individual brake circuits at each wheel.
  14. Switch the ignition ON . Use the hand scanner to perform 3 function tests on the system.
  15. Carefully test drive the vehicle at moderate speeds; check for proper pedal feel and brake operation. If any problem is noted in feel or function, repeat the entire bleeding procedure.

Oct 10, 2010 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Changed left rear brake cyl & want bleed?


you can uaually gravity bleed. Make sure the reservoir is full, then unscrew the bleeder nut (above the brake line at the cylinder) a couple of turns. Use a drain pan under the wheel. Watch the fluid coming out until it flows with no bubbles, then tighten the bleed nut. Check pedal for stiffness. If necessary, pressure bleed as follows. Have a second person pump up and hold the brake pedal down while you open and then close the bleeder. repeat this procedure until no more air comes out the port. Any questions, please reply.

Sep 12, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Pump worked yesterday but would not shut off. I left pressure in system over night, today pressure gone, when I turn pump on, the motor runs, but no pressure or water pumped.


1.Turn off the power going to the pump.
2.Drain all the water inside the pressure tank.
3.Open the priming port plug of the pump, and fill it
full with water.
4. Put the priming port plug back in place. Close the
flow control valve and start the pump.
5. Slowly open the flow control valve to 1/8 to 1/4
open and see the flow stabilize at 20 psi of the
pressure gauge.
Hope this will help.

Nov 20, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Driver side brake not bleeding properly after bleeding left side and changing rotors, calipers, and pads?


first of all make sure master cylinder is full of brake fluid.then you crank car leave foot off brake pedal. watch abs light on dash it should turn off in 10 seconds if not have car towed to garage or dealer. they have to use a scanner to scan the abs brakes if abs light turn off in 3 seconds. then starting bleeding from master bleed the lower brake line fitting at the proportional valve followed by the upper brake line fitting. keep eye on brake fluid in mastercylinder dont let run dry.next prime the abs hydralic modulator.connect the bleeder hose to the rear bleeder valve on the modulator.place the other end into a container partially filled with cleab brake fluid.make sure the end of the hose is submerged.open the bleeder valve slowly about 1/2 to 3/4 turn have an assistant depress the brake pedal and hold it in the depressed position. when the flow of fluid ceases close the bleeder valve.repeat process until no air bubbles are present in the fluid.then tighten the bleed valve securely. start bleeding brakes. your bleeding sequence is right rear - left front - left rear - right front.WARNING IF ALL FAILS YOUR BRAKES DONT FEEL SOLID AND FEEL VERY SPONGY.DONT DRIVE CAR. HAVE IT TOWED TO DEALERSHIP.THEY WILL HAVE TO PRESSURE BLEED YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM.

Nov 17, 2009 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

The clutch is not disengaging .does this car have hydraulic clutch .the clutch has no pressure on it except return spring.new clutch and pressure was installed about 2 months ago. what would cause this


you should have a concentric slave cylinder more than likely, either it has come apart and leaking or it has not been bled properly. try opening the bleed port untill you get a flow of fluid. you must keep resivor full at all times. takes two people. once you get a good flow at bleed tighten bleed screw top of resivor and put cap on then depress clutch pedal to floorfor 4 seconds and release as fast as you can to the top then pause for a couple of seconds. do this 20 times then have some one apply moderate pressure to pedal and just barly open bleed port to release any air left in system. if this does not work replace the cylinder. i have gotten bad ones at the parts place. berrydalewolf.

Oct 24, 2009 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

Steering wheel play


Try reaccomplishing the bleed procedures and that should help your problem!

SYSTEM BLEEDING
  1. Fill the steering pump with fluid. Operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine.
  2. Turn the wheels to the full left and full right position to circulate the fluid. Add fluid to reservoir to maintain full level. Start the engine. Check the fluid level and add if necessary.
  3. Purge the system of air by turning the wheels from side-to-side without going to the full left or right position.
  4. Return the wheels to straight ahead position and operate the engine for 2-3 minutes, then stop the engine. Add fluid necessary. Road test the vehicle.
Please don't forget to rate!!!

May 22, 2009 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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