Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
My machine is 3 yrs and 4 months old. It stoped working and i took the back cover off. I found that the large "Sub Pully" had come loose which cause the belt to come off and break. It also cut into the drum but not trough any of it. I had service come out and they told me that he would recommend a replacemnet of the (Sub Basket $689, Sub Tub-oute $445 & the sub pully $53) the total came to $1406! I paid $999 so i would have thought after 8 calls to Sears that someone would have wanted to keep me as a customer and be able to send me the pully for free to see if it would solve the problem as it happened only due to the bolt coming loose on shaft that is attached to the basket. My concern is if i order the part myself and the actual shaft is wore then i will have the same problem after some number of loads, correct? Do i need to throw this one away and never buy Sears/Kenmore again? other suggestions?
Cliff, I think the tub and basket have a five year warranty on them. If the technician thinks they need replacement, then the warranty should cover it. Should be a labor only deal...Catriver...post back.
Posted on Mar 22, 2007
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Oct 04, 2014 | Bosch Washing Machines
Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.
Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)
Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.
Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.
Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)
Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)
Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.
Replace pump screws.
Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.
Replace motor screws and connector.
Re-attach hoses on pump.
Button up cabinet.
The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.
Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.
Drive pump leaked
It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.
1. Take the front covers off.
2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt
3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel.
4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses.
5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4)
6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor.
7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft.
8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned.
9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes.
10. Attach the belt and test the pump.
11. Put the front back on
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3
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