Sub Pully has wore to the point it allows the belt to slip off

Disconnect the power
disconnect hoses
lay machine on it's left side
remove back cover screw and cover
slip belt off pully
unplug motor wires
undo bolts holding motor
pull motor to rear of machine
revome motor to bench
locate brush housings
undo retaining clip and slide out old brush
fit new brush
replete with other brush
reasonable in reverse of removal

The idler pulley is supposed to be loose on the belt so the brush won't turn until you recline the handle back

Your going to check the belt and pulley inside the machine but let me warn you first, this is a knuckle busting nightmare of a machine, and if your not fond of the idea of bleeding, grease and pain, call a repair company. I'll post a few examples to help you make your mind on the topic.
Belt wore out

Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.

Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)


Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.

Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.

Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)

Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)

Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.

Replace pump screws.

Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.

Replace motor screws and connector.

Re-attach hoses on pump.

Button up cabinet.

Done.

The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.

Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.

#2

Drive pump leaked

It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.

1. Take the front covers off.
2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt
3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel.
4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses.
5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4)
6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor.
7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft.
8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned.
9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes.
10. Attach the belt and test the pump.
11. Put the front back on

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

I have the same projector. Many years ago the main drive belt rotted off and needed to be replaced. This drive belt drives everything in the projector. If yours has failed, you will need to remove the back cover (4 phillips screws) and replace it. Just find the drive motor (about center top) inside the projector. With the shaft pointing front to back, the main drive pully is on the back end with a fan mounted on the front end. E-bay sells replacement belts for about $10.00 to $13.00 dollars. I just used a belt that I picked up at the local electronics store that looked like it would fit. You should replace both belts, if one has failed, this is an old projector. If only the take reel has a problem, ie slipping, adjust the clutch on the rear drive pully.
Ray

The input shaft on the transmission is snapped.The shaft is snapped off from its fitting.This causes the belt to slip/ wobble.The belt should not wobble.There should be zero wobble.Only the belt should smoothly spin, but not wobble.---- Check the shaft.------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Seven years later... sorry, man!

— Solution —

I have a Skil Belt Sander model 7313 which must be very similar if not the same. It has a 3/4HP motor, 3" x 18" belt capacity, a lever for belt release and a single Phillips screw for "adjusting auto-track" which is a misnomer in itself. Very odd. That screw is on the front left as you are using the sander, belt-down. When you "loosen" (CCW) this screw, the belt should move (if at all) toward the body of the sander; "tightening" it (CW) changes the angle of the front roller, which can force the belt off the open side. In my case I had to loosen it all the way just to slow it from slipping off the machine.

My tolerances wore over time — or my belts were constructed poorly — so that the belt always rode off and away from the machine no matter where that screw was .

So, I "shimmed" the roller closest to the adjustment with a 1/2" strip of duct tape one full wrap around (this made the end of the roller closest to the tracking adjustment "fatter." Tested it. It needed more. I added another piece of tape to the complete circumference of the roller, but this time 1" wide, covering the first tape right up to to the original edge, and over toward the middle. Tested it again. It needed more, but was improved. I added one more tape, 1-1/4" wide from the same edge out to the middle — effectively making a bit of a 'cone' toward the center, and this solved it for me. I think that in my case, the belts I bought at Home Depot were just a bit too long and needed this shimming method to take up slack.

I found it easiest to make final adjustments "under load." Sand something right-handed using light pressure and adjust the screw with your left hand. (Note: this differs from the offical instructions in the manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/132374/Skil-7313.html?page=8.

It may help to lubricate the pivot point of the front roller, which is actually about 4" back of the axel, right at the release lever's rivet, back inside the machine. If this pivot point is not fee moving, your auto adjust may not be able to allow proper rocking for adjustment.

Also, with the belt off the machine, you can get a better idea of how the adjusting screw for the so-called auto-track feature does its work. Mine seems to have a lot of room to adjust it exactly the wrong direction, and no adjustment in the opposite direction. Hence my shimming idea.

Hi, If the belt shows no sign of wear and its not torn or cracked then you have nothing to loose in trying to put it back on, some machines have a tensioning bolt that can be undone slightly so the motor can be moved down to tension the belt if it seems loose and others do not, but if you anre unsure you can always get a new belt anyway.

Another consideration is that the machines bearings may be getting worn, making the pully go out of alignment (hence the belt coming off), check this by gently pushing the front rim of the stainless tub up and down, if you can feel movement it may be worth getting it checked for bearing failure with a view to getting them replaced.

Hope this helps.

its tricky enough if your not sure what your doing but ill run you through it. 1. remove top rocker cover and timing belt cover. 2 make up the position of the pully on the cam shaft at the top and the drive shaft at the bottom, this marks are you fail safe incase you cant time the engine. 3 remove the timing belt and pully tentioner, note if your going this far you are as well to replace the timing belt,tentioner and water pump. 4 On the cam shaft at the top if you force them to turn you will see a small indicator mark on the shaft this mark has to line up with the other indicator mark on the housing between the cam shaft and the cam shaft pully, once they line up your top end is timed, mark up the pully incase it moves. 5 on the drive shaft pully there is also markings that have to line up but you can also feel the position of the pully as you turn it, you will feel the piston been forced up and it is timed at top dead centre on cylinder one, which means the the piston has to be at the top just before the point of returning back down, using your feeling as a guide and the markings lined up you will have timing. also mark up this pully, your new marking should be very very close to the fail safe markings you put on at the start. when you have your marking replace the timing belt with the longest distance between pully contact going on first, try not disturb your timing or your hard work will have been for nothing, make sure the tentioner on the belt is tight but not to tight to the point where you ll stretch the belt or snap it, put everything back as you found it and crank the engine, job done, best of luck. hope this helps( rate me on my answer thanks )

TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

If the Brushes don't rotate, & you have two brushes; 1). Turn unit on side. ( Make sure unit is up-pluged) 2). Rotate the front brush roller, if the second roller moves at same time, 3). Locate a small ribbed belt that goes from the further back roller, to a small ribbed pully. (Gates belt #177-3m5) ( on side under a clear cover) The belt may not be broken, but may have carpet fuzz / lint covering the belt ribs, causing the belt to slip. If that belt is OK and you find that the small pully doesn't turn the belt/rollers, the problem is with a small internal direct drive motor, that drives the brush rollers. At this point return the unit, as Bissell has a design defect & is using cheap parts.