Blue and white wires to compressor got wet, shorted and burned. Can scorched recepticles work again?

Hello Tracy;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration.
These units are nice, inexpensive and delicate.
There are not a lot of components to this unit.
1.) As a former service technician I have found the customer is not careful when defrosting. The manual states use a plastic spatula and a hair dryer. The refrigerant passes through the plates. Customers us hammers and screw drivers to remove the ice. The customer nicks the plates and the refrigerant leaks. Feel the plates. If you feel a oily clear substance you have a refrigerant leak. This repair will cost more than what you purchased the unit for.
2.) The Compressor & Overload relay. Unplug the unit. Remove the side panel. You will see the compressor and a box fixed to the compressor. The box is attached by wire clips. Using a flat head screw driver pop the clips off. There are 3 metal studs on the compressor. You will see a white piece with a 'V'. This is the overload. Using a flat head screw driver pry off the connectors including the white component. Inspect the component for burn marks. Shake the white component. If it rattles it is bad.
The compressor - You need a multi-meter to check the compressor. There are 3 pins on the compressor. Set the multi meter to the lowest setting on Ohms (The Omega Symbol). Put the two probe end together. You should get a reading of 1.0. Put the probe on two pins of the compressor. Record this reading. Ten the next set, record this reading and then the third set. There will be one high reading and two lower readings. If the two lower readings add up within reason to the high reading the compressor is good.
With the compressor and overload, sometimes you have to purchase both at a cost of $250.00. In this case you are better off to buy a new unit.
The temperature control T thermostat is difficult to check. If all of the previous component check out then this is your problem.
Peter, Baltimore, MD, USA

Kenmore model 255.19502010 seems to have this problem where it will not get cold anymore, but it is a $12 solution and and easy wiring job. Easy like if you know colors and how to plug things in you should be able to do it. Get a Supco 3 n'1 Start (model RCO410) for a 1/4-1/3 hp compressor on ebay or Amazon. This one device replaces 3 different components (relay, overload and start capacitor) that all have a tendency to fail. When it arrives, make sure the frezer is unplugged, remove the metal panel on the side of the freezer. You will see a large black orb almost the size of a football, that is the compressor. On the left side there is a black plastic box that covers the connections on the side of the compressor. Open that up and you will find another black plastic thing plugged into the compressor that has a bunck of wires plugged into it. Pull it loose of the compressor by pulling straight back or gently prying it away with a flat screwdriver. You will see that it is plugged into 3 metal prongs that stick out of the compressor. You will see that all the wires go back to a Cylinder shaped device about 1.5 inch diameter and about 5 inches high it is secured to the bottom rail with a single bolt. Remove the black cylinder and all other pieces that were plugged into the compressor. You should be left with a white and black wire coming from the dial selector on the front. Follow the directions on the package of the SupcoBy connecting the white wire to the lower left prong on the compressor, the Black wire to the top center prong and the red wire to the bottom right prong. Connect the other 2 black wires to the black and white wire coming from the dial with the enclosed wire nuts. Put the new 3 in 1 next to the compressor andplug in your freezer to test. If it gets cold then unplug it and secure the new 3 n1 with a ziptie, duct tape' screw' or some other way (do NOT screw into the 3 n 1 just through the hole in the top.)

If this does not fix your freezer then put it on craigslist for a fermentation chamber for home-brewers and home wine makers because your compressor is probably shot.

One note: while I was repairing mine I took the dial thermostat out and int eh process unplugged one of the connection. The first time I plugged in my freezer it did not turn on but the green light was on. If this happens to you inspect all the connections and make sure they are on tight.

It sounds like the common line (white wire) may be broken or disconnected in the line going to the recepticle. When this happens the missing common line is somewhat created down the line through another device or appliance plugged into the same line. It would take too much typing time to explain how this happens but you should call in an electrician to test the circuit for you if you don't have the experience to do it yourself. If you plug in another device like a heater etc (like Jay suggested) and it barely runs, that is a good indicator of a bad common line. Don't continue to try using this line as you will burn out the compressor.

Compressor is locked up. You have an outside chance of getting it to come back if you install a hard start capacitor. When a locked compressor tries to start it gets hot really fast and kicks the power off to prevent wires from overheating. You can get a hard start kit from wwgrainger or refrigeration supply company. Many times they won't sell direct to the end user. The hard start kit gives it an extra boost when it tries to start. Most times this won't work. Usually the compressor has to be replaced because it is burned out internally. The hard start kit is less than $20.00, so its worth a shot.

Hello,

A freezer is great for storing additional food that may not fit in your fridge freezer. If your freezer stops working, it's important to be able to troubleshoot it quickly so that food waste is kept to a minimum. Keep the following tips in mind if your freezer stops working.

Inspect the Relay
The relay is a component that helps power the compressor. It is housed in a plastic box with the motor terminals and the overload protector and is connected to the Compressor; the relay is the largest component in the box. Closely inspect the relay and make sure it is not burned out. The relay can also be tested using a multimeter. If you see any signs that the relay has shorted out, you'll will need to replace it. If the relay makes a rattling sound when shaken, this is also a sign that it has shorted out.
Examine the Compressor
The compressor is essential to the performance of your chest freezer. It is the motor that powers the entire cooling system and if your freezer has ceased to work, you need to check it. This unit is located at the back of the freezer and sits in plastic housing; it can be identified by its football shape.
You can tell that the compressor is broken if your relay is fine or if you hear a light hum followed by a clicking sound and silence. If your freezer is relatively new, it might still be under warranty and you could get a replacement compressor for free. If not, your compressor will need to be replaced by a professional.
Investigate the Thermostat
The fact that your chest freezer is not working could be down to the thermostat. This is the unit that regulates the temperature inside the freezer. To test your thermostat, remove the access panel on the side of the freezer. Next, use a screwdriver to remove the actual thermostat from the inside wall but do not disconnect the tube that runs from the unit into the freezer.
Set the range scale on Rx1 on your multimeter to test for continuity. If your multi-tester reads continuity, your freezer problem lies in another spot. If your multi-tester does not read continuity, it means your thermostat is not working and you will need to replace it. Remove the tube from the old thermostat and attach it to the new one. Screw the new unit into place on the freezer wall and make sure the tube is not coiled or kinked as this will prevent the new thermostat from working properly.


Hope this helps......

this sounds like the compressor you are talking about. unplug the freezer. pull that plastic cover off of the front of the compressor and it will expose the wiring underneath it. it may have 2-3 wires but look to see if they are burned together anywhere. this is the only way the sparks could be jumping out. hopefully it is just the wires and not a burnt winding in the compressor. if it is either, repair wires or replace compressor

no check the air thats being blown by the fan in the freezer can you feel any cold air and i mean cold? if not go to the back of the fridge taKE Off the bottom panel should have like 6 to 10 screws see if the fan in the back is working  if yes see how hot the compressor(the big black thing next to the fan, sorry some people dont know what it is) see if its hot if it is very very hot like burn your hand hot you can try to cool it down with some paper towels and cold water but unplugg the fridge if its warm not so hot or cold than you need to get a 3 in 1 kit  your compressor is not turning on because the starter relay is not good and its not helping the fridge turn on the relay is very very easy to install once you get it youll have to take off the black plasticon the right or front side of the compressor there are two plastic parts that are on the compressor under the big black part ( you might not have the black plastic if not just do this step) take the plastic parts that have the wires attached to it put the kit on on the kit there are three wires with metal little parts at the tips fallow the directions and place them on the right part of the  compressor there are three metal sticks about less than an inc big and you have to put the three wires on each one FALLOW THE PICTURE black on the middle on and depending if you middle on is on the top or bottom would depend where you put what color wire if you middle one is at the top put white wire on the left and red on the right and if you middle one is in the bottom black goes on it and white on the right and red on the left but like i said fallow the directions
than you have to strip the other two wires that are left on the kit than take the two wires that you took off with the plastic parts that were on the compressor once you cut them strip the wires and just connect them to the two left over ones from the kit doesnt matter which one goes where
sorry for the long reply but this should help
if you do the 3 in 1 kit and the compressor turns on and after a while like an hour it doesnt feel cool air at all than you have a freeon leak which mean new fridge
the 3 in 1 costs like 20 dollars
good luck keep me upadated

on the side of the compressor you will see 2-3 wires running into an electrical connection reseat this first. if still no operation replace teh relay. you can purchase thru any reputable appliance parts dealer. after replacing the relay if you have no operation then likely problem is seized comp. 

the noise your hearing indicates the possibility of a bad start relay on the comp or possibly it just came loose during the move. on the side of the compressor you will see 2-3 wires running into an electrical connection reseat this first. if still no operation replace teh relay. you can purchase thru any reputable appliance parts dealer. after replacing the relay if you have no operation then likely problem is seized comp.
domestic freezers do not have low pressure switches that indicate low freon charge.

Your compressor has shorted out. The compressor shouldnt be scorching hot just warm. And that humming you are hearing is the compressor trying to start but it is shorted. There is nothing you can do except for replace the compressor.(or the refrigerator)