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The machine is 10=12 years old and in great shape i got it used, a few weeks ago from a storge sale. the cold water dose not work . when I try to run a cold water cycle it sound like there is air in the line,and make the hose shake really bad, I swape out the cold for the hot and it ran fine so it is the machine and the the water line. when I only use hot water it is ok but when I use warm or cold only is when I have the problem.
My Whirlpool Thin Twin has a very similar problem. The cold water fills VERY slowly. It takes over an hour to wash a small load. Will these solutions possibly work for me, too?My Whirlpool Thin Twin has a very similar problem. The cold water fills VERY slowly. It takes over an hour to wash a small load. Will these solutions possibly work for me, too?
I have the same problem with slow filling. I pulled out the screens and cleaned them but it was evident that was not the problem. Then i pulled out the entire valve mechanism. It looks fine like there is nothing wrong with it but there is no way to tell if the electrical is actually making the valve open and close correctly. The electricity does turn the valve on and off but I'm not sure the valves are opening fully or not. To begin with they are magnetic and just moving them manually they are very hard, the rubber parts seem to be hard to pull or push by hand (even thought they are very pliable not dried out or stiff) I would wonder if the small magnetic cylinders with the little spring would even have enough force to open and close these rubber valves. It seems the valve itself is a pretty poor design. The pinhole passages for the water through the valve are so tiny its a wonder water gets through the valve at all. The hoses, screen filters are all clear. Is this just a valve design problem inherent with all these washers??. I don't want to spend money on replacing the valve and find out that its going to continue to fill up slow because its just the way the valve is designed. It takes over an hour just to do one load. Water just trickles into the washer. The fill rate does vary depending on Cold/Cold, Cold/Hot, Warm/Hot etc settings. I can't figure it out. I have the same problem with slow filling. I pulled out the screens and cleaned them but it was evident that was not the problem. Then i pulled out the entire valve mechanism. It looks fine like there is nothing wrong with it but there is no way to tell if the electrical is actually making the valve open and close correctly. The electricity does turn the valve on and off but I'm not sure the valves are opening fully or not. To begin with they are magnetic and just moving them manually they are very hard, the rubber parts seem to be hard to pull or push by hand (even thought they are very pliable not dried out or stiff) I would wonder if the small magnetic cylinders with the little spring would even have enough force to open and close these rubber valves. It seems the valve itself is a pretty poor design. The pinhole passages for the water through the valve are so tiny its a wonder water gets through the valve at all. The hoses, screen filters are all clear. Is this just a valve design problem inherent with all these washers??. I don't want to spend money on replacing the valve and find out that its going to continue to fill up slow because its just the way the valve is designed. It takes over an hour just to do one load. Water just trickles into the washer. The fill rate does vary depending on Cold/Cold, Cold/Hot, Warm/Hot etc settings. I can't figure it out.
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There should be filter screens in the water valve and/or hoses. These can be cleaned, but are an inexpensive hardware-store part. Sediment in the water supply can clog the screens. The cold causes more problems than the hot because the water heater acts as a settling tank. Do not operate the washer without the screens as the sediment can cause a valve to remain open.
This may be a prob with your house plumbing - its called water hammer and usually happens with high water pressure. may work better if you turn down the inlet tap
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The fastest I ever saw a Kenmore softener thrown in the dump was seven weeks old. This was at the owner's insistence; just wouldn't remove iron. He bought an Autotrol with a turbulator from me. This was about 15 years ago and it still works just fine. He had his first service call 2 years ago. I've always thought that quality was more important than price, but if you wish to install yourself I can come so close to the "sale" price of a Kenmore.
first, the cost of figuring out what part is defective and getting a replacement part may take a couple weeks and couple hundred dollars for the repairman.
second, you will STILL have all old parts on the rest of the washer.
third, if you buy a new washer, you have serious expectations of it working properly for at least 5 years.
when the compresor is failing then you can get uncontrolable tempts this would cause the ice lines . / sounds like it time to replace or do major repair . ****
Did anyone find out the solution for this??????? I have the exact same problem with my LG 32 LCD. I only had it for a year and a half, and the green light blinks a few times and it shows no picture. Not even a red light when the tv is off. The same thing happened a couple weeks ago and by some miracle it started working again.
Your old Maytag is a much better machine than the new Maytag's, but replacing the drum bearing and seal is a somewhat expensive and rather difficult job, requiring a couple special tools. Not usually a do it yourself job. Unless you really love that machine, it's time for a new one. The average life of a washer is about 9 years. Look into the front load models which use much less water and spin out over twice as fast as your old top load machine. LG is the top rated by consumer reports, but you don't have to buy the top of the line models to get the the direct drive motor with 7 year part warranty. Other companies make a pretty good product also.
Don't bother rating this "solution" as anything but a FixYa lowers my rating.
We have a hd2560 (bot 10/04), french door with inside water dispenser and it had stopped working a year ago, but started working a few months later. I couldn't figure out what happened, but suspected the water line was frozen. I later found out that the water reservoir is located behind the fruit and vegetable bins, so look there to see if the water is frozen.
Two weeks ago, our frig/compressor stopped cooling after making humming/clicking sounds for weeks. Fortunately, Maytag has a 5 yr parts & labor warranty on the compressor, so we were covered. Evidently, there are quite a few faulty compressors out there.
I believe that the compressor had been over-cooling in the past and caused the water lines/tank to freeze. This would also cause frozen produce/fruit. I would immediately contact Maytag/Whirlpool if you suspect a faulty compressor as well.
if it is coming from under your unit is it most likely the water inlet valve for the icemaker check that and let me know you will have to remve the 2 screw on the kick plate to get to it,it should be on the left side
Leaking pump or drain connexion most likely
you will have to get under to check it out.
Put a several sheet to news paper under the machine and pull it out as it stands to see where the water is coming from front/back/sides
Do a wash and repeat.
But you will need the service of an engineer I guess unless you are good with a wrench.
My Whirlpool Thin Twin has a very similar problem. The cold water fills VERY slowly. It takes over an hour to wash a small load. Will these solutions possibly work for me, too?
I have the same problem with slow filling. I pulled out the screens and cleaned them but it was evident that was not the problem. Then i pulled out the entire valve mechanism. It looks fine like there is nothing wrong with it but there is no way to tell if the electrical is actually making the valve open and close correctly. The electricity does turn the valve on and off but I'm not sure the valves are opening fully or not. To begin with they are magnetic and just moving them manually they are very hard, the rubber parts seem to be hard to pull or push by hand (even thought they are very pliable not dried out or stiff) I would wonder if the small magnetic cylinders with the little spring would even have enough force to open and close these rubber valves. It seems the valve itself is a pretty poor design. The pinhole passages for the water through the valve are so tiny its a wonder water gets through the valve at all. The hoses, screen filters are all clear. Is this just a valve design problem inherent with all these washers??. I don't want to spend money on replacing the valve and find out that its going to continue to fill up slow because its just the way the valve is designed. It takes over an hour just to do one load. Water just trickles into the washer. The fill rate does vary depending on Cold/Cold, Cold/Hot, Warm/Hot etc settings. I can't figure it out.
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