GE JKP15 Electric Single Oven Logo

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linda lewis Posted on Dec 14, 2017
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I have a digital oven that wont heat. The clock works and I can turn the oven on but it will not heat up. Is it the heating element? The temperature does not rise and the temperature display does not go above 100 F even though I have it set at 350. I turn the circuit breaker off and back on but it did not work.

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Tom Chichester

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  • GE Master 62,329 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 03, 2020
Tom Chichester
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Defective temperature control

5 Related Answers

aborcass

Ron Coons

  • 2651 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2008

SOURCE: GE Profile -Installed wall oven - won't heat

brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares

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seakish

  • 492 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 30, 2009

SOURCE: My GE Oven heating element and timer clock went

Try unplugging the oven and let sit for 10 min. This will reset the curcuit board and reboot the electronics. You may have to pull out the stove o get to the cord.

Mukesh Kumar

  • 3230 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 28, 2009

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Anonymous

  • 10865 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 17, 2009

SOURCE: Bottom oven doesn't heat after running self-clean cycle

Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Anonymous

  • 3361 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2009

SOURCE: Where can I find an electrical schematic for my GE

Unplug the oven and then,
If you pull the oven out and open the top you will find a manual inside.

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