If i did a couple loads of with the counter weight spring miss could i have d-rated the other springs from doing a couple of loads?should i try to get new springs or ? i know its lisping to the right forward corner along with the fabric holding on the left is twisted more to the right and not lining up to the hole in the washer frame?

Check that the door seal is on properly. There is a spring that goes around the seal to hold it on

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.

FRONT LOAD OR TOP LOAD? The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.

I haven't checked parts numbers on front and rear springs for what you are doing but, generally there is a difference in the spring rate between fronts and rears because the front need to support the weight of the engine. To further complicate things, springs begin to sag as soon as they are installed. While not noticeable when all four are fairly new, the difference is visibly obvious over time.
So, even if they are physically able to be swapped, chances are high that the desired result you are looking for won't happen and you will end up buying new springs. I suggest you go for the new ones first and save yourself a lot of unnecessary work. If you still want to try what you said, check the part numbers and get the rate specifications from a spring shop. If buying new and you want to increase the load carrying capacity, try to find a variable rate spring such as "car-go- coil". They won't stiffen up the ride a lot but will handle extra weight.

yes it will remove there is a spring clip that holds it to the front panel. then it is usually easier to remove the counter weights to reinstall the boot.

It is possible the rear counter balance spring has come off or the hole that the spring hooks onto has rusted. If the spring hook end has broken off you can often just bend a new hook part with a couple of pairs of pliers. If the hole in the washer frame has rusted, you will need to drill a new hole to hook the rear balance spring into. If the spring "took off" somewhere and is now missing, time for a new spring.

click this link directly for diagram
http://www.applianceaid.com/directspring.html

hope this helps.

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

4 springs on bottom of washer 3 from tub to top of base hidden, 1 from rear tub to bottom of base straight down, hole in inner lip of base, to counter weight of motor.

counter weight spring hooks in hole left side of rear spring bracket thens hooks through directly below that in base..unless hole is rusted out then just drill a new one ..by the way some wobble is normal a stationary tub would cause a lot more vibration

Here is how you do it. 1st remove the door & hinge, 2nd remove the covers on the screw where the door sits that holds down the control panel. 3rd remove two screws holding the door latch in place. Remove the spring & wire holding the boot on and pull the boot loose from the plastic holder Remove the plastic boot holder. You will now see the boot where it attaches to the tub. There is a spring and wire that holds that on. At the top there is a tab on the seal, grab it and pull towards you. The boot will come off. To reassemble I remove the counter weights(concrete weights) from the tub and put the boot firmly into the slot on the tub. Now reinstall the rear spring. Be sure to also reinstall the counter weights if removed and torque them tight around 25 to 30 foot pounds. Reassemble the front panel and put the spring retainer back on. Tools needed T20 torx driver, 13mm wrench, and needle nose plyers.