My lg lfx28977 doesnt make ice. I change the freezer temp to -6 but it makes about 4, 5 trays and then quits too, last 3 days it makes about 1 - 2 trays. Any ideas?

SOURCE: Another Ice Maker Problem

i suspect that repair man got it wrong. ice may be blocking return duct to fridge. worth a chance to turn off for 24 hours with doors open then retry

SOURCE: just bought new side

freezer temp should be set to approx -18 to -22 degC
fridge should be set to +4 to +6 degC

SOURCE: Ice maker stopped after electric shutoff

You may have a problem with the computer control board in the ice maker.  Try this.  Turn off the icemaker for about 2 minutes.  
Turn on the ice maker and press the clear button.  Press and hold this button for 12 seconds to get it to force extract.  This will confirm that the motors will work and push the ice cubes out.  Afterwards, let it run by itself.  If it still doesn't make ice, you will need to replace the icemaker.

Jeff Barton

• 520 Answers
• Posted on Jun 26, 2009

SOURCE: LG French door fridge freezer not freezing

hopefully you looked out back ...rear lower panel and checked little white condenser fan running...it really needs too to keep temp stable across the condenser coils and no overheat condition to the compressor.hopefully you wont need the $300 circuit board like I just bought

Charles T Nevin

• 4070 Answers
• Posted on Sep 01, 2011

SOURCE: The freezer section of my

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.