This is an intermittent problem that has gradually got worse! After powering on the amp after about 2 seconds the full amp is powered (a noticeable click) then it shuts itself off! It did this sometimes during a movie and I put it down to current fluctuation. Then the phase of powering down after switching on started.
It's now connected to a UPS, all the speaker and other cables have been checked and double checked for possible shorts (in fact the same fault occurs with nothing connected). Then some days (after 30 mins switching on and off) it will work without fail until switched back off.
The last click you hear before the amp turns on is the power relays for the amp circuit,these have 2 very small copper contacts inside them which after much time get corroded and cause high resistance when they try to power up the amplifier circuit.awkward to get to and desolder but can be opened up and serviced,done mine and a few friends with yamaha amps which use similar system,had no problem since,also worth checking for dry joints around amp chip i.c legs onto main board.
The DSP-A1 has an internal self diagnostic program which you can access from the front panel. The service manual shows how to do it and what the readout codes mean as far as the fault that caused the trip. Service manuals are cheap and readily available on the web.
My DSP-A1 is doing the same thing. The unit's internal circuit breaker is tripping. That's the click you hear. Mine was intermittent and I sent if over to the local Yamaha authorized service in Portland, OR for repair. If anything they made it worse. Now the unit is basically unusable. They kept the unit for 4 months and finally came back with a long list of items they think it needed (at $650+). I don't have any confidence that they knew what they were doing. I have heard some good things about Yamaha's west coast service (TAP Electronics) in Buena park, CA and may send it there. Otherwise it becomes a boat anchor or Goodwill donation I guess. Please let me know if you solved your problem and what it was. Thanks.
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I don\'t know, but change the switch or bypass it. They give plenty of problems & motor would start sometimes & not others.....Check the oil & rely on old style tech. I bypassed the switch on both of mine.after they gave problems & wouldn\'t run when needed....I only got a second one when I needed power & the switch was the only thing wrong ( I found this out too late.) & ended up with 2....
I live in Australia & have a Hyundai Grandeur XG 3LT V6 2002 model (US equivalent is Hyundai XG300). Fault codes are P1118 (ETS motor fault) & P1178 (ETS motor battery voltage open). An intermittent fault. The first code denotes general area of the fault & the second code denotes the specific fault. So the specific fault is that the ETS-PCM computer is not receiving 12V on pin 2 with ignition on. 'Check engine' light remains on & car is in 'limp home mode' with very little power & poor performance. I had purchased the Hyundai service manual online (ebook about $8) for the US model. Could not find any manual for the Australian model. On page FLA-52 found the block diagram for the whole ETS system. I am a retired electrical engineer so now it became easier for me to find the fault. There are 2 computers behind the center console. PCM & ETS-PCM. Pin 2 of the ETS-PCM should have 12V present when ignition is on. In fault mode 12V was not present. This 12V is supplied from ETS 15A fuse (fuse box under dashboard) via a relay (i will call this relay the ETS relay). The 15A fuse was OK but the 12V was only intermittently being passed through the relay points. Relay is located near ignition switch on a sub panel which has about 6 relays on it. ETS relay was at right bottom corner of sub panel. Yellow wire feeds the 12V (which is always present even with ign. switch off) to the relay points. White wire is the output wire from the relay points which feeds 12V to pin 2 of the ETS-PCM computer. Measure if 12V is present at white wire when ign. switch is turned on (no need to start engine) I only had the 12V present intermittently. So pulled out the ETS relay - tested contacts with ohmmeter & found to be only making contact intermittently when relay lever depressed - removed relay case by grinding away one corner of the case - cleaned the relay points with fine sandpaper. replaced the relay case & taped with black insulating tape to keep out dust. Tested relay with ohmmeter & points now OK. Fault is now cleared & car is operating normally. Also had previously purchased on Ebay a Can OBD11 scanner for $15 which read the fault codes OK. Hope this helps other people with similar problem.
please your monitor's switch is currently ok and warking?
second time your open the cpu couver and so the all add a smps sowaked in the motherboard add is ok. and you so the smos power
is down power you changed smos power and restart the pc and chack the ok.
Sounds like you like your music like me... LOUD. If you've done this a number of times, there are a few things that can happen:
1. You've blown the speakers... but you've said it operates for 2 seconds, then cuts out.
2. You've damaged the amplifier modules within the amp and they immediately overheat upon power-up. Does the music come back like 5 or 10 seconds after the unit cuts out?
3. Thermal switch has malfunctioned and just cuts off the power to the amplifier modules as soon as it sees any heat.
4. If you've gotten the amp really HOT during playing, it's possible that it's as simple as the amp modules are only intermittently connected (fatigued/stressed or cold solder joints) at the on the PCB. Just resolder the connections of the amp module to the PCB. I've seen that happen numerous times and that's where I'd place my money.