Amp powers off after switching on

I don\'t know, but change the switch or bypass it. They give plenty of problems & motor would start sometimes & not others.....Check the oil & rely on old style tech. I bypassed the switch on both of mine.after they gave problems & wouldn\'t run when needed....I only got a second one when I needed power & the switch was the only thing wrong ( I found this out too late.) & ended up with 2....

hi,can be a lot of things if diesel car maybe turbo packing up or egr valve or cat same on petrol engines so best to get the ecu scan at a dealer or someone that got a diag machine,regards

I live in Australia & have a Hyundai Grandeur XG 3LT V6 2002 model (US equivalent is Hyundai XG300).
Fault codes are P1118 (ETS motor fault) & P1178 (ETS motor battery voltage open). An intermittent fault.
The first code denotes general area of the fault & the second code denotes the specific fault.
So the specific fault is that the ETS-PCM computer is not receiving 12V on pin 2 with ignition on.
'Check engine' light remains on & car is in 'limp home mode' with very little power & poor performance.
I had purchased the Hyundai service manual online (ebook about $8) for the US model. Could not find any
manual for the Australian model. On page FLA-52 found the block diagram for the whole ETS system.
I am a retired electrical engineer so now it became easier for me to find the fault.
There are 2 computers behind the center console. PCM & ETS-PCM.
Pin 2 of the ETS-PCM should have 12V present when ignition is on.
In fault mode 12V was not present. This 12V is supplied from ETS 15A fuse (fuse box under dashboard)
via a relay (i will call this relay the ETS relay). The 15A fuse was OK but the 12V was only
intermittently being passed through the relay points. Relay is located near ignition switch on a
sub panel which has about 6 relays on it. ETS relay was at right bottom corner of sub panel.
Yellow wire feeds the 12V (which is always present even with ign. switch off) to the relay points.
White wire is the output wire from the relay points which feeds 12V to pin 2 of the ETS-PCM computer.
Measure if 12V is present at white wire when ign. switch is turned on (no need to start engine)
I only had the 12V present intermittently. So pulled out the ETS relay - tested contacts with
ohmmeter & found to be only making contact intermittently when relay lever depressed
- removed relay case by grinding away one corner of the case - cleaned the relay points with fine sandpaper.
replaced the relay case & taped with black insulating tape to keep out dust. Tested relay with ohmmeter & points
now OK. Fault is now cleared & car is operating normally.
Also had previously purchased on Ebay a Can OBD11 scanner for $15 which read the fault codes OK.
Hope this helps other people with similar problem.

TRY CHANGING THE KNOB SWITCH.

Remove battery cables and clean all three of the connections & replace bolts.

the only solution to your problem is replace the power supply.you have to purchase the same unit specs.

please your monitor's switch is currently ok and warking?
second time your open the cpu couver and so the all add a smps sowaked in the motherboard add is ok. and you so the smos power
is down power you changed smos power and restart the pc and chack the ok.

might be a faulty power window motors & switch (s)

Sounds like remote turn on wire is bad. If using aftermarket HU, find another location to power amp. Try the the power antenna wire on the HU to run the REM.

Sounds like you like your music like me... LOUD. If you've done this a number of times, there are a few things that can happen:

1. You've blown the speakers... but you've said it operates for 2 seconds, then cuts out.
2. You've damaged the amplifier modules within the amp and they immediately overheat upon power-up. Does the music come back like 5 or 10 seconds after the unit cuts out?
3. Thermal switch has malfunctioned and just cuts off the power to the amplifier modules as soon as it sees any heat.
4. If you've gotten the amp really HOT during playing, it's possible that it's as simple as the amp modules are only intermittently connected (fatigued/stressed or cold solder joints) at the on the PCB. Just resolder the connections of the amp module to the PCB. I've seen that happen numerous times and that's where I'd place my money.