Machine constantly runs

Check the inlet screen to the water circulating pump and the water heater element for lime buildup. I've seen a heater element that had a 1/4" thick layer of lime encasing it. The inlet also had some lime and other debris clogging the screen. After carefully chipping away as much as was practical and running lime remover (such as CLR) through the machine, it heated the water much more quickly and had an effective spray.

To prevent a recurrence of this problem, make sure you have a functional water softener ahead of the water heater feeding the machine.

First, see if you get the same result when you run the machine on "Air-Fluff." If you don't pop the breaker on Air -Fluff you know the problem is originating in the heat circuit, get inside the machine and inspect the wiring for crispy/burned terminals and the heat element for damage or contact with the housing... If it does pop the breaker on Air-Fluff: Inspect the terminal block on the back of the unit where the power cord is bolted on (with the unit unplugged), look for any scorched spots- if that is clear, remove the outlet cover and inspect the wire connections on it for scorching (with the circuit break off). Can't be more specific without a model #!
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heater element should only be held in by 1 bolt which runs from inside to outside element faxe......remove the nut..........carfully prise the element out...its only kept in place by rubber ..washing up liquid may help.......

cheers

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

Start from scratch, hook every thing back up, do not bypass the thermal fuses for your issue, all you are bypassing is the heater element.
Unplug the unit, check the breaker, then the cord for burning. then come back and will take you to the next step.

it sounds like one of the coils on the heating element could be touching metal and grounding out constantly running until you shut it down manually,when the heater is on the timer doesn't move until the heat shuts off,then the timer advances,when the machine calls for heat again the timer stops and the heat comes back on,it does this until the timer reaches zero but in your case the heater isn't shutting down and is keeping the timer from advancing.the filter is on the top of your dryer so unplug it,pull it out remove the ventline from the back of the dryer and remove the back panel,you'll see the heating element on the right side,also with a meter check the thermostats on the heater box,when checking any part at least one wire has to be diconnected or you won't get a correct reading,check for continuity on all the parts on the heater box,when the dryer is running correctly say you have a blocked vent line,when the dryer starts running hotter than normal the thermal fuse or the high limit thermostat will pop,the thermal fuse is the white piece to the right of the lint filter duct and the hgh limit is the top thermostat on the heater box,but with the element grounding out nothing will shut it down until you manually cut the power by moving the timer to off,if it melted the baffle you could have damaged other parts like the motor,check the rear end of the drum and see if there's like yellow on it or lint stuck to it where it touches the back wall,if there is then the oil from the motor sprayed out and the motor could last for a week or 5 years but the overheating most likely damaged it,if the dryer is old you might want to think of buying a new dryer instead of repairing it and then you have problems with something else like the motor or changing out thermostats in a month or two but you have to make that call,good luck and let me know what you find

Yes heatr should be submerged in the water. Not expose to free air.Check the water level float switch or the pressure switch.

The replace timer should be identical in design. If there is a mismatch it will not function as designed.

If it is elctronic micro controller type the same part no and soft ware version should be used.

hi there.......this problem could be caused by a failed heater element ...if the element is not heating the machine will just wash wash etc...the front panel will have to be removed to check the heater element....if the element is ok...check the heater NTC ( little white plug in the heater element)...if all ok here....then you have a main PCB board failure....

it may be more economic to have beko send an engineer to you...

regards Sir Galahad

there is a sensor in the exhaust line in the dryer, near the motor. this tells the heating element to shut off when it gets to a certain temp, either during reg cycle or if the exhaust gets clogged, it is meant as a safety measure, but it sounds like yours is bad so the heating element never shuts off. it is not an expensive part and easy to replace

well it would help to know the brand but one thing to check is, turn timer on to timed cycle and open door, push door switch in and wait to see if heater comes on. If it does replace element. clean your vent and replace thermostat if element is ok.