Washing machine Estate washer -- ther is a black tube running from the bottm of the tub to somewhere up top. This hose has become disconnected. Water all over my floor

If the water shuts off when you push the timer knob in then the most likely failure is the water level/load size switch or the air tube connecting the air dome and water level switch has developed a hole in it or it may have pulled off from the water level switch. If you have to shut the cold/hot water faucets off in order to stop the water then the water inlet valve has failed open. I added instructions in the image below on how to access the water level pressure switch in the console and how to remove the front panel and raise the top. You will need to inspect the tubing connected to the water level pressure switch and where it connects on the lower side of the outer tub. If you do not find it disconnected or any holes in the tubing, replace the water level switch.

The top load washer utilizes a pressure switch attached to a clear plastic hose. If the water fills the tub but will not stop filling you will need to remove the top panel and inspect the hose for obstructions. You may need to disconnect the tube flush it clean and make sure no foreign debris are in the connector on the pressure switch. If the tub will over fill, you may need to replace the pressure switch. If the water will not fill the tub and the water continues to run you need to check the drain pump. Is water exiting through the drain hose? If so the drain pump could be the problem.

the pressure fill switch has become disengaged....remove screws holding control panel and raise it up,you will see a plastic tube has become disconnected and must be reattached to a component directly under load size selector switch,usually a rust or orangeish color,sometimes white

There might be two possible reason for that.

it might be coming form the tub itself passing through the rubber seal of your plastic rotator(the big wheel inside the tub)

the other thing is in the junction of the hose the tub.

try to open the back of your washing macjine where you can get an access inside the wheel and the junction connector, from there you will the cause of the leackage. try to put some water while looking at so you can see where the water is coming out

If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it. Replace if deemed necessary.
  
• Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the household plumbing. Tighten it or replace it as necessary..
• Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
• Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
• Outer tub: The outer tub can rust, split, or be punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for details.
  

If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

1. Air-gap device: It is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you have to replace it.
2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
3. Inlet spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it. Replace if deemed necessary.
  
• Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the household plumbing. Tighten it or replace it as necessary..
• Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
• Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
• Outer tub: The outer tub can rust, split, or be punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for deatils.
  

If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

1. Air-gap device: It is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you have to replace it.
2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
3. Inlet spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

1. Air gap device: It is a small device found on most washers to prevent the wash water from from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either midway along or at the the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water inlet valve It is usually made of a translucent plastic. If it is deformed or cracked, you need to replace it.
2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it is broken, it can cause a leak.
3. Inlet spout: Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If broken or loose, it can cause a leak.

During the drain and spin only:

1. A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Check the entire hose and correct any problem you can find.

All the time:

1. Hot and cold water fill hoses: Check the hot and cold hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten or replace it.
2. Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Open the the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center.
3. Pump: You can probably see the leak when the tub is full of water. If it leaks, replace it.
4. Outer tub: Steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split or be punctured. Consult a qualified appliance technician if it is the culprit.
   

It spins, but doesn't pumpIf your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.


It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 


It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. 


If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
  
  
• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
  
  
• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
  
  

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
  
  
• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  
  
• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
  
  
• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

My washer is doing the same thing. I put it up on blocks so I could see where it was leaking from. On mine it was leaking from the pump which a big white piece of plastic in front of the motor. The pump has two hoses connected to it the **** the water out of the tub and pump it out the drain hose. Disconnect the two hose clamps, remove the hoses (use force). There are two spring clips on top and one bottom. I laid mine on it's side to remove them. There two slots one top, one bottom for you to use when prying the clips off. Place screwdriver under clip and between grove and push/pull until they come off. Carry pump to the sink, fill with water and see if it leaks from somewhere, should be obvious.