Is it hard to put a straight axle under the front of a 05 chevy 1500 reg cab 4x4 the IFS on this thang sucks and its costing me lots of money cv axles and tires

That model does not have U-joints, it uses constant velocity (CV) joints. It is much easier, and usually just as cost effective, to replace the half shafts (front axles that go from the differential to the wheels). Most parts stores don't even sell the CV units separately, and they are a lot more work to change.

take off wheel remove upper balljoint nut seperate ball joint from spindle remove big nut from center of wheel remove six bolts to inner axle and carefully knock axle out of hub repeat in reverse for install

no there is no auto locking hubs. 96 chevys have a ifs (independent front suspension) this give it more ground clearance but does not have lock out hubs, the cv axles go into the front differential an spin freely until you put it in 4wd, how this works is your transfercase spins the drive shaft that goes into the front differential an while you put it in 4wd it sends power to the actuator to lock the front differential. if your front end isnt pulling you either popped your 1 of your cv axles but if you did this you would know because it makes a very loud thunking noise while you're driving, my guess is you have a short thats not sending power to the actuator. check to see if the wiring harnesses are connected and check if the fuse that operates the 4wd in the cab of the truck is not blown. also actuators for these trucks are horrible they go out alot. also you can try reversing a few feet putting your truck in neutral an then try putting it in 4wd

96 chevys have a ifs (independent front suspension) this give it more ground clearance but does not have lock out hubs, the cv axles go into the front differential an spin freely until you put it in 4wd, how this works is your transfercase spins the drive shaft that goes into the front differential an while you put it in 4wd it sends power to the actuator to lock the front differential. if your front end isnt pulling you either popped your 1 of your cv axles but if you did this you would know because it makes a very loud thunking noise while you're driving, my guess is you have a short thats not sending power to the actuator. check to see if the wiring harnesses are connected and check if the fuse that operates the 4wd in the cab of the truck is not blown. also actuators for these trucks are horrible they go out alot

if the axles are making noise or the boots are ripped just replace the cv axle shafts

tortion bars. is what you have. No springs in an IFS (indapendant front suspension)

Either a bad u-joint or you need to replace the Axle shaft! just had the same problem in my 1500 4x4 they dont have CV joints..

most likely the front axle CV joint is worn out.

Step 1 would be to see if the vacuum supply switches from one hose to the other on the front axle disconnect. It's a vacuum servo on the front axle, and has 2 hoses going into it. BE CAREFUL as you will have it running and be right under the engine and fan. If it sucks through one hose in 2WD and the other in 4WD, the transfer case switch is working properly, and the servo is suspect. Also, did you test drive in a parking lot to see if it actually in 4WD and just not turning the light on, or is it definitely not going into 4WD?

I have a 2002 Dodge 1500 Ram 4x4, quad cab and had the same problem. In 2wd the clicking was constant, in 4wd it would go away. Also I had no 4wd while in 4wd, found that out after a snow storm. I took my truck to a buddies garage (a Dodge mechanic), he said this is a common problem. He pulled the drivers side wheel, hub, axle and stub axle. The stub axle splines where it goes into the CV joint and and the internal splines in the CV joint were gone. Almost smooth even. The wheel bearing was completely wore out too. I ended up replacing the hub assembly, both the inner and outer axles. Not a cheap fix either I have about $600 repair bill, but it's back on the road now smooth and quite.