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Can't control temp of one element, is either high of off, nothing inbetween

The lower right element is either off or high. It can't be controlled to an in between temperature range. What is the problem and is it something I can fix myself if I get the appropriate part? Mike H.

Posted by Michael Honor on

  • jenair19348 Jun 28, 2008

    i replaced the grill with a coil cartridge. i am unable to control the temperature. Either it is off or high

  • Anonymous Feb 06, 2009

    Same thing . . . I replaced the grill with a two-burner coil top. I can control temps on one coil and the other is either OFF or HIGH. Any ideas how to fix?

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1 Answer

Anonymous

- The infinite switch for the controller likely needs to be replaced, this part can be ordered from your nearest Jenn-air parts dealer

Posted on Jun 04, 2007

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Maytag convection precision touch control 800 electric oven not cooking evenly

Oven comes on and off intermittentlyor heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

OrWhy does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bakeignitor. Replacing theignitorusually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that theignitoris the problem before replacing it.Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

OrOven safety valve needs to be checkedwith multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSOTest the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreakerpanelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meterto the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!











Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature controlis usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.
The oven sensor:works with the oven control board to regulate the oven temperature. If there is an oven temperature problem, this sensor might be defective. The sensor can be tested by using an ohm meter. As temperature rises, the resistance measurement also rises. The manufacturer of the oven sensor determines the correct resistance,Oven temperature problems can be caused by other things,but this is one of the common causes.
Beware on some models nowmost of these ovens they are electronic and they are integrated into the control itself
some different sensor ohm readings at room temp. approx 16 ohms at room temperature and at 350?F it is 29~33 ohms.
Read more:
http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/5xrsf-ge-xl44-gas-oven-oven-ignites-even-when-oven.html#ixzz3YdtiPcn8
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!




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Jgd8348bdp burner not working

SEE PICS Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fusebox orbreaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multi meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continui

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KDRS505XSS freestanding double oven range has wiring faults and will not heat. How do we fix them?

Hi,

I would have this unit checked because the electronic control is 300.00 for this unit. I ran into this and the control was the fault not the wiring to the elements, but I can't tell you to change this because I won't miss lead you like that. Several tests need to be done to rule out a shorted element before the replacement of the control unit p#W10365424, most electronics are not returnable due to there nature of people swopping them and returning them. I think a service call is needed to be sure of the issue you have.

Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

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How do i turn the outer ring on for a dacor stove top

Pushing the button for the element will turn on the inner element at level 5. Before adjusting the level (so while the level indicator is still blinking) press the little circle on the right side of the controls for that element. The circle should light up. Now press the UP control for that element, and the level indicator should stop blinking. Now the outer and inner elements are both heating up. Adjust temp level to desired setting.
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GE Spectra electric burner always on high

Sounds to me like the RF switch is bad.
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY
Jun 26, 2008 • Cooktops
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Jenn-Air Electric cooktop

did you replace the limiter the long rod that goes across the element or just the element everything i can find says that's the culprit
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Maytag, precision control 500 [canada]

the infamous "custom control kit" its an electronic board that only control that one precision temp burner all other elements ar regular switches, if thats the one where the sound os coming form replace the control. .nothing else to do
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