The lower heating element in the oven portion of my Kenmore Electric Kitchen Range does not turn off when the knob is set to the off position. The cook top burners work fine. If the switch needs replacement can someone give me the correct name for the switch? Thank you!
SOURCE: kenmore glass top range left front large burner out
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
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SOURCE: Dual cooking zone burner not working
Okay...what you have is a dual element with the 6 inch coil burned out. Yes, this is repairable, but unfortunately, since this is a dual element, it is sold as one assembly. The part number for a replacement is WB30T10044, and you can find it at repairclinic.com for about $90 (repairclinic item number 824238). I know it isn't cheap, but it beats having to pay for a service call, or buying a new appliance.
If you wish to repair this yourself, you can do so by following these steps:
1. UNPLUG the range before servicing. There are dangerous voltages still present even with burners turned off.
2. There are a few screws located under the front edge of the cook top. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Remove these screws and the top should lift up. If the range is not equipped with any kind of hinge supports, the top will have to be propped up.
3.On some ranges, there is a disconnect plug for the surface element wiring harness. If you have this feature, unplug the wire harness from the connector and follow these steps:
a. Unplug the cook top and leave the elements in place.
b. Place the whole cook top assembly face-down on a soft surface (like some old towels, or a blanket).
c. Remove the affected surface element. Take note of the numbered positions where the mounting screws are located and locations of the wires. You may want to write down the numbered positions and the wire color codes. HINT: A good digital camera can save you time if you have one. You will need to install the new element in the same manner.
d. Install new element (upside down). Handle the surface elements with care. They are very fragile. Care also must be taken not to handle the element coils or ceramic material. Try to handle from the underside of the element only. Oil from your hands can cause damage to the element and/or premature failure.
e. Re-install the cook top back on the range and you are DONE.
NOTE: If your range does NOT have a disconnect plug on the wiring harness you will need to perform the repairs with the cooktop propped up, and install the surface element assembly from underneath. A helpful hint: Use some duct tape to hold the element secure until you have it screwed back into place. Don't forget to remove the duct tape when completed. Once completed, lower the cook top and secure with screws.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have require additional assistance.
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
SOURCE: Top right element gets red hot when turned on any setting
Could be the burner has a short in it.
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