Question about GE GSH25JSRSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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Relay won't stop clicking

I was having problems with the dispenser in the door. I'd try to get water or ice and all I'd get is a dim light. I got around the problem a couple of times by taking some ice out of the packed full tray. Now the problem has worsened into a relay that won't stop clicking unless I turn the freezer control to zero. Other things I noticed along with the relay is that the compressor pulses slightly in time with the relay. The fan also nudges forward 1mm then back. The damper between the compartments also seems like it is trying to close even though it is closed already. I think the damper actually stopped doing that after a while. The unit is 1.5 years old.

Posted by Matthew Random on

  • 1 more comment 
  • Matthew Random Mar 11, 2007

    Board...
    J7-9 (orange) to harness J11 (gray) is 121.7-121.9 V.
    J7-9 (orange) to harness J8 (blk) is 2-9V (fluctuates).
    J7-9 (orange) to harness (blue) is 0V.

    Fan...
    white to red 1.5KOhms
    white to yellow no reading

    I only saw one fan. Unplugging the fan didn't stop the relay clicking. The click frequency is 1 per second. The clicking is coming from the relay just above the 3-wire harness at the bottom of the board.

  • Matthew Random Mar 12, 2007

    The gray wire I mentioned is actually brown and it the terminal labeled line so I'm seeing 121.7 to 121.9V between J7-9 and the line terminal.

  • Matthew Random Mar 13, 2007

    Turns out the problem was the board. The unit is working fine with a new board.

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1 Answer

Ron Marek

Ron Marek

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Matt, sounds like you have a main board problem here. The main board is on the back side of the refrigerator. If you are handy with a meter you can do some checks. Is the clicking relay coming from the main board? If it is, than it's more than likely your problem. First check the voltage from connector J7-9 (orange wire) to blue harness to the left, terminal marked line. This should have a steady 120V, no fluctuation. If you don't have this, replace the board. You want to make sure that the condensor fan motor and evap fan motor are not shorted. A shorted motor will take out the board. At the fan motors harness, with the power off, if you read less than 1K ohms between white to red or white to yellow it's bad. This is for both the evap and condensor fan motor. The part number for your board is. WR55X10543...Catriver..post back.

Posted on Mar 11, 2007

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