If you have any experiance with electronics remove the casing and check the fan with a external 12V power source. If the fan still does not work, it needs to be replaced, try and get a brushless fan as it will last alot longer.
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If the car was running when testing sub and heard noise this could be engine noise and an inline filter would cure that problem and also have a good ground no more than 15 inches away from the amp.And good metal contact for ground.
If the amp is powering up but not producting any sound, there are 4 possible causes.
1) Incorrect or faulty wiring.
2) No input or input too low for the amp.
3) Defective speakers.
4) Incorrect amp or head unit settings.
Start by checking all of the wiring and onboard fuses. Especially check the speaker wiring and make sure there are no shorts or grounds and that the insulation is not nicked or frayed. Check the RCA cables by substituting a known good pair. Check the receiver (head unit) to see if there are any settings that need to be turned on for the preamp outputs to work.
Test the speakers on another output to determine that they are functional.
Check the amp settings and insure that filters, crossovers and gain controls are properly set. If your wiring and the settings all check out and the speakers work on another output, the amp itself is probably defective.
There may be a loose wire to the lights, or the power supply or amp may have a problem. Do you have the amp mounted to your sub box directly? You shouldn't. The vibrations from the bub will kill the amp in a short amount of time. If it is noticeably weaker, you should check out all aspects of the system. For instance, if you have a dual voice coil sub, is one coil open? Is one channel on the amp bad? Is half of the power supply on the amp bad? hence half the power, and no lights?
Many amps will go into protect mode if one of the speaker wires is shorted or grounded, or if the voice coil(s) are defective. Try disconnecting the speaker wires one at a time and see if the amp still goes into protect upon power up. Likewise, some amps will go into protect if one of the inputs is grounding out. Again, to troubleshoot, disconnect them one at a time and try the amp. Next, make sure that the amp itself is not grounding. Most amps need to be mounted to a nonconductive surface. If the case contacts the frame of the vehicle, it can cause a problem. If the problem is not in the speaker wires or the input cables, the amp case is not contacting the vehicle frame, and you have checked your power, ground and turn-on leads, then the amp itself is probably faulty.
4 CHANNEL-1100w MAX HIGH ENDURANCE SLIM AMPLIFIER 4 CHANNEL [2 OHM] 110W x 4 4 CHANNEL [4 OHM] 80W x 4 2 CHANNEL MONO [4 OHM] 220W x 2 2 OHM LOAD CAPACITY VARIABLE LOW [40-250Hz] PASS FILTER VARIABLE HIGH [40-250Hz] PASS FILTER BASS BOOST RCA PRE-AMP LINE OUT SPEAKER LEVEL INPUT
http://www.bcae1.com/repairbasicsforbcae1/repairbasics.htm
This is a really good site to learn about repairing amps and anything else you want to know about car audio. Are you wanting to replace the board or looking for someone to repair your amp.?
i would go with the 801.And ithink u meant the 4501 not 4051.Both super power amps. competition stuff.your woofers are 4ohms dual voice coils.so you can series the coil on eaach woffer and use the two channels on the amp.they play at 2ohms.I think if you drop it down to 1 ohm you really be taxing you alternator that is series power.Yioou would need a special alternator.Even with them running in 2 ohms you better hav eat least a 2 farad cap.OR two batteries.. ! more thing don 't pump it up with window s closeed .you'll pop them.serious dbl. you be pumping.I'm jealous.Rating please and enjoy.
Reconnect one speaker per channel and swap the RCA cables (L > R and R > L) to see if the working channel switches sides. If not, move all switches and controls to see if any are intermittent.
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