WS65807 I have a 65807 and need to know where two wires go. In the back of the set there is a small chip board that says 'Pre-Amp'. There are about 5 different wire coming from this board and all but two are connected. The two that are not are brown in color. They are connected at the 'Pre-Amp' but not at the other end...They appear to be have been pulled from a plug but I can't find any empty on the main boards. The set seems to be working just fine but these two way-ward wires have got to have a home somewhere!!! Please Help....Thanks..

You didn't include your car info to know the wiring, regardless, what you need to do is return it within their allowed time to get your money back. If you open one up you'll likely see a computer chip looking thing and a few other small parts on a board, impressive. Upon closer examination you'll find the chip is connected to nothing and the actual circuit is only running through several resistors on the board. All this thing does is change the resistance reading going to the computer to fool it into running rich then the O2 sensors have to force the computer to regain balance. It can not increase your mileage. It might add a little power under heavy throttle when the O2 circuit is ignored by the computer, it might also throw things off enough to cause many problems. You could simply go to radio shack and buy a resistor for a few cents and have the exact same results.

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Just apply the excellent solution of "dskum" that I am reproducing here:

dskum

I had the same sub and I started hunting down the problem by disabling \'sectional\' parts of the circuit to find out whats causing the problem. The problem was narrowed down to the small \'limiter\' circuit which is soldered vertically on the Pre-Amp. (The wire from power amp connects to it)

As far me, the limiter circuit doesn\'t add much value, if you are careful enough not to push the subwoofer to its peak limits. There is a 7 wire bus which connects the Pre-Amp (top board) to the power amplifier (bottom board). In that 6 wires are just direct connection from pre-to- power amp board. The pre-amp output goes through the limiter. (1st black wire).

To remove the limiter from circuit just physically remove the limiter board by de-soldering the 7 pins through which its connected to pre-amp. Also you may\'ve to clean up the glue around to easily remove it. Disconnect the 7 wire connector from the limiter and solder it directly to the pre-amp board. (Only 6 black wires need to be connected.) Check the picture. Also as part of experiment I replaced the power filter capacitors with slightly bigger capacity. (But its not necessary - the glue on the old capacitors made it look like it was bulged - but its not).

The white wire (limiter feedback) is not necessary and that can be disconnected or cut off for good. All the popup/crackling/thumping it was making is gone and the sub is working great again. (Yes it was doing so even without any inputs).

While de-soldering make sure don\'t apply too much heat. The boards are pretty weak and you might easily damage the solder pads.

WhiWh



Whil Also don\'t use any kind of diode or mess with it the limiter circuit. Just removing the limiter circuit makes it good. If you use diode to directly connect the pre-amp line to power line as suggested earlier you might be damaging it more than its currently since you are almost connecting to the 42 v rails to it. Also if you google you would come across the service manual if you are interested in the circuit diagram.

Here is your schematic:

http://elektrotanya.com/peavey_pv-8.5c_sch.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download. IGNORE other "download links" n the web page.

okay if you have a ear piece thats use on a walk man or mp3 stick it in the side if you ear sound then thats good buit if you dont there could be only two issue number 1 in the menu for sound check to see that its not on mute and speakers are on and not off also internal not external if these are all on then you may have a bad pre amp audio board that need to be replaced you will need a technician who can test to see if its getting and signal from the main board sometime the pre amp chip goes bad but this is very very unusal

If your talking about the thump thump sound thru the sub when in standby mode, here's a fix if your good with a small soldering iron. Remove the amp from the sub. Locate U301 on the limit curcuit. (the small circuit card standing up right) Replace U301 with a TL074IN (www.alliedelec.com part #248-0012) .35cents +S/H also remove R263 from the preamp board,add a new 1N4148 diode(#935-0242) .05 cents to the pre amp board. Connect the Anode of the new diode to the Anode of D101 and the Cathode of the new diode to the Cathode of D108. Replace amp and test. Thump thump should be gone.

Sounds that the wireless adapter daughter board is either loose or failing. First, we need to make sure it is making good contact with the laptop's motherboard. In order to do this, we have to do the following:
1. Turn off the laptop & remove the battery.
2. Look at the compartments in the bottom of the laptop. You should be able to see 2 or 3 areas with small rectangular plates covering them. These plates usually have one or 2 screws holding them in place.
3. Check which one of those plates is the one which covers the wireless adapter daughter board. When you find it unscrew its screws & remove it.
4. Below the plate, there will be a small daughter board screwed to the laptop's motherboard, with 2 thin wires attached to it (usually one black wire & the other is a white wire). Gently, remove both wires using a small flat screw driver to pull them out gently. Don't forget to note down which wire connects to which connection point.
5. Unscrew the wireless adapter daughter board & remove it from its slot.
6. Clean both the slot & the daughter board's terminal connectors using a dry electric contact cleaner. You can purchase it at an electronics store.
7. Leave the slot & the daughter board for a while to dry.
8. Re-place the daughter board back in the slot & screw it to the motherboard.
9. Reconnect the 2 wires.
10. Screw back the covering plate.
11. Put back the battery & turn on the laptop. Check if the problem was fixed.

If this did not fix the problem, you will need to repeat the steps to remove the wireless adapter daughter board & replace it with a new one.

You need to check that the signal is getting to the amp. This can be done by removing the wires off the cartridge for the left and right channels. With the amp on touch the ends of the wires. If you hear a buzz the signal is getting to the amp and the cartridge is dead, but if you hear nothing and if the wiring is as you say good. Then the pre-amp in your amp for the cartridge has failed. This pre-amp will only affect the record deck and no other functions. If it has gone you can trace the wires from the sockets to it. Sometimes it will be on a seperate PC board. It's often a single IC that has failed. If you can replace it yourself be careful with the new one as these are often static sensitive chips.
PS the phono scokets on the amp sometimes buzz if you pull the plugs in & out!

One of two things has happened here.

First: 2-2 is short protection---98% of the time in this set it means one of the two 5 amp pico fuses on the same board as the convergence IC's is blown. They are located toward the back of the set in row of 5--green and look like resistors--should have location numbers on top of board F9A04 AND F9A05.

If you find either open most likely one of the two new chips you put in is either bad or when you soldered them in you shorted pins on the bottom of the board.

If the soldering is good--locate and replace either or both fuses that are bad AND BOTH CHIPS again.

You will not get a new chip that is bad very often but it can happen.

Did you remove the board to get at the chips etc or what?

I have done hundreds of these sets.

Let me know if you have questions and I will try to help you.

If this helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

check all the wire connections

I think the originals may have been IR21844S. I've been using the IRS21844S and they have worked well.

The un-connected pads lift relatively easily on these boards. If you want to avoid lifting those pads and you have a soldering iron with a temperature control, use ChipQuik solder alloy to remove the ICs. Set the iron to ~450F as a starting point. Increase the temperature slightly if necessary.

If the amp has vertically mounted outputs, be careful when you reinstall them. The holes typically have a fair amount of slack. If the transistor isn't positioned correctly when it's soldered in, it will be too far from the sink and will not be able to mate (thermally) to the sink (the clamps aren't strong enough. If they are too close to the sink, they will rip the insulators when you slide the board back into the sink.

Let me know if you have any other questions.