My 2008 yamaha zuma 125 dies right after starting

SOURCE: Front sprocket

Hi ........... One tooth less will give you more top speed (if you can pull top revs) but will reduce accelleration. If you go for one tooth less you'll need to tighten the chain and/or remove a link. It's a trade off ............ decide what you want the bike to do.

SOURCE: I HAVE AN OLD YAMAHA SR 125 ITS REVS GO UP AND

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should get you back on the road.

Since you mentioned uneven idle revs, be sure the carb and manifold are on tight and also tighten the cylinder and head. Air leaks can screw up the idle.

Please rate this solution. Thanks speedfreak41

SOURCE: Starting Problems Yamaha TTR 125

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Be sure the bolts are tight. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. Set the idle speed with the idle screw. This process should get you back on the road.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

SOURCE: my name is james, i have a 1982 yamaha xt550 that

The first place to look is the Kick stand safety switch,This will cause the problems you are having,If it is going bad or not contacting completely.(You can bypass to test it,if need be )

Check that and then post back if you still have any problems.

SOURCE: yamaha 125 grizzly starts and idles when choked but dies when acc

Take the carburetor apart again, remove the main and idle jets and idle mix screw, plus the float and needle valve. The main jet holds an 'emulsion tube' in--look inside where the slide valve moves, you should see a short brass tube projecting out of the bottom. Carefully push down on that tube with a plastic rod or wooden dowel, it should drop out the hole where the main jet was. Chances are that the tube is dirty and needs to be cleaned--look carefully at the series of small holes drilled into the sides of the tube. These small holes deliver air which is mixed into the fuel passed through the main jet. That air comes from a small hole just inside the intake side of the carburetor. The long needle that sticks out of the slide bottom controls low to mid-range speed fuel-mixture. Check that the 'C' clip on the top end of the needle is in the center groove and that the retainer spring is pressed down the 'C' clip. Now soak the whole carburetor with spray cleaner, then blow out all passages with compressed air. Don't soak the rubber-tipped needle valve from under the float. On reassembly, set the idle mix screw 1-1/2 to 2 turns CCW from CW stop. Adjust for best idle after you get it running and warmed up. I hope this long winded explanation helps!