Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer
I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care 2 top loading washing machine Model # LSQ7030KQ0 that doesn't spin all the time. It will agitate just fine. No problems with that. I put a screwdrive in the sensor so I could leave the lid off. I watched it do the whole cycle. It did the agititate and then drained the water. Once it was drained it did nothing. It sounded like it was trying to spin. I could not manual spin it though. Was locked in place. I turned off and then back on and it began spinning. It did this again after it filled with water again and did another agitate and then drain. Turning off and on again made it spin. I have noticed a couple times I have opened it up and I could manually start the spin myself and it would start spinning. Not this time though. (We bought these used from a friend of a friend) It looks like it may have sprayed some oil underneath at some point in time. There is a little bit of oil (Looks like it may have been there for a bit) on a couple bolts underneath. Not sure if that means anything. Thanks for any help.
How much does it cost to replace a basket? My washer's 2 years old and I am starting to get rust spots on clothes (?)
I am assuming the slightly rusty basket is to blame (I see slight rusty colored discoloration towards the bottom holes in the basket)
Posted on Sep 10, 2008
I am experiencing the same problem with my 18 month old Whirlpool Ulitmate Care II washer. The repairman was out today and told me that I need a new transmission and clutch. He's replacing the basket too since it's starting to rust. What a piece of junk! Good Luck with yours.
Posted on May 30, 2007
The motor coupler could be worn. This is accessed by removing the front of the cabinet. The upper console 1s held on by 2 screws at the base of the upper control at the back corners. The console slides forward then rotates up. Benearth the upper console is 2 gold spring clips which have to be pryed out with a screwdriver, The power cord will have to be disconnected at this time. The whole cabinet will tip forward 45 degrees leaving the base and tub assembly stationary. The cabinet then can be slid out of the way. In the front at the bottom is the pump and motor. Pry off the 2 spring clips that hold the plastic pump in place and pull it out of the way. You do not need to disconnect the water lines. The motor is held in place by 2 spring clips which are fastened to the motor by a 5/16 hex bolts. Remove these bolts and pry the clips out of the way they both will pop off of the motor, do not let the motor drop. Pull the motor out of the way revealing a black rubber disk with a white coupler on the motor shaft and one on the transmission shaft. this whole assembly will likely be damaged and will need to be replaced.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
The machine will drain water as it begins to spin, once all the water is out then the spin will ramp up to max speed. If the drain is working then it indicates that the motor is turning the correct way and the spin should be happening at the same time. Unfortuntely it sounds like the gearcase has stopped working effectively and may need to be rplaced.
One additioinal thing to check before pronouncing the gearcase, the basket drive block. This is located under the agitator it holds the inner tub in the machine. It will be an aluminum cylingrical shaped piece with a slit on the side. The top of the inner tub center will have a spanner nut on it, this screws directly to the block. this block can sometimes wear and not allow the inner tub to spin. In exterme cases of wear the block will wear the 2 tabs off of the transmission shaft and the gearcase will have to be be changed.
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I did a quick glance at the coupler earlier and it looks to be in decent shape. I have replaced one of these for my mom.
The one on this machine doesn't look damaged at all. I will attempt to take it out later on tonight and see if it does need to be replaced.
I did notice that the machine feeds water out while it is doing it's spin. I have never seen a machine do that. Is that abmornal?
Could that make it a timer issue or electrical issue?
Replaced the Coupler even thought it looked good. There was no damage to the rubber of the coupler and the plastic pieces were fine
Still no luck. I had somebody tell me with what was happening that it was probably the timer. I will be replacing that this weekend and I will let you know how it works then.
I replaced the Clutch (Took about 15-20 minutes) and that only cast be about $30 for the clutch. That will make the thing last a lot longer. The Gearcase still needs to be replaced but that will happen later. I may just have it rebuilt. Much Cheaper.
all works well except it only spins 30% of the time. i can physically turn the aggitator counter clockwise and eventually it will spin.
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