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Water not moving

Have the symphony and seems like there is a jam in the pipes tryed the tt air bubble release proceedure but not working 8( I wanna play online again can any one help me please !!!!!!!!

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There is a Calcium buildup in the system. Try 'CLR Rust and Grim remover' Ray

Posted on Jun 21, 2007


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Is there special instructions/video to bleed the Magura RT8C?

I came across similar challenge when trying to fit the Magura RT8 TT brakes on my road bike with the Shimano Dura Ace levers. So converting to RT8C is a nice way to enable hydraulic rim braking with my normal cable operated road levers.

The original PDF instructions does not mention much about the RT8C as it is geared towards RT8 TT. The YouTube video is also for RT8 TT, not useful for RT8C.

Having tried half a dozen times with different techniques, I finally found a way that works and it works consistently each and every time. And I am happy to share this with others. Hopefully this would reduce the level of frustration involved when trying to bleed a RT8C system, as this as simple as a Shimano or SRAM hydraulic brake.

You would need to Magura Pro Bleed Kit to complete this procedure.

Here is the procedure I follow:

  1. Ensure RT8C is levelled.
  2. Tip and reposition the bike on bike stand, to ensure RT8C is slightly higher than the brake calliper, to ensure any air bubbles in the hydraulic system rises toward to outlet port of RT8C for collection.
  3. Depress the Quick Release on RT8C to depressurize the hydraulic system.
  4. Remove the Hex bolt to open the inlet port on the brake calliper and connect syringe with brake fluid. If the previous step has been done properly, no fluid should rush out.
  5. Remove the EBT screw to open the outlet port on the RT8C and connect the Pro Bleed kit. If the inlet port has been connected to syringe properly, no fluid should rush out.
  6. Position the drainage tube of the Pro Bleed kit such that it immediate ascends vertically after the fluid exits the outlet port, gaining as much altitude as possible. You would need to hang the Pro Bleed kit a bit higher than the RT8C. The drainage tube itself would form a staging vertical column of brake fluid to enable air bubbles to rise and purge from the system. Note that this technique does NOT require constant flushing of brake fluid thru the system. In fact, if done properly, no fluid should be drained into the Pro Bleed kit bottle. The vertical column of brake fluid serves as the exchange, to allow proper purging of air from the system whilst immediately filling those gaps with brake fluid.
  7. Plunge the syringe just a bit, until brake fluid appears in the drainage tube vertical column created in previous step, and form roughly a 10-15cm column of brake fluid.
  8. Now depress and release the brake levers in quick successions and repeatedly. You should see some air bubbles appearing in the staging vertical column of brake fluid.
  9. Let bubbles rise to the top. As this happens the brake fluid would rush in the fill the void. The fluid level will drop. Plunge the syringe a bit further to push more air bubbles out until the 10-15cm column is restore.
  10. Repeat the previous 3 steps until no more bubbles can be seen
  11. Now depress and release the Quick release mechanism to purge any air bubbles within; Repeat this step until no bubbles can be seen. You may need to use your fingers to move the quick release pistons manually, whilst having the QR lock depressed. Just popping the QR piston out once or twice is not enough. Manually exercise the pistons in a push/pull fashion in quick successions to achieve effective air bubble purging.
  12. Repeat the previous 5 steps until no more bubbles can be seen. You may have to go thru a few cycles to ensure there is absolute no air bubbles in the system.
  13. The hydraulic system should now be free from air bubbles
  14. Leave the Quick Release open to ensure extra fluid is in the system to re-pressurize the hydraulics once both the inlet and outlet ports are closed.
  15. Check how responsive the vertical column of brake fluid is, in relation to brake level movements; also check this with the QR lock release movements. You should see direct correlation of rise/fall of the brake fluid when these levers and valves being operated. If not responsive, then there is still air in the system. Repeat previous steps until the outcome has been achieved.
  16. Reposition the Pro Bleed kit so that it is BELOW the outlet port, so that upon disconnection, all the remaining fluid in the vertical column shall drain into the bottle.
  17. Disconnect the drainage pipe connector of the Pro Bleed kit from the outlet port. And hold the connector high to drain all fluid into the bottle.
  18. Screw on the EBT screw; Wipe clean
  19. Disconnect the input tube of the syringe from the inlet port; Retract the syringe piston until no fluid is in the connection pipe to minimize dripping.
  20. Screw on the Hex bolt; Wipe clean
  21. Wipe clean all inlet and outlet ports from brake fluid using Isopropyl Alcohol.

Hope you would find this helpful.

Bleeding the radiator

take the top off the header tank ( part you fill the water in) top to the top run engine until it boils or fan kicks in to cool down the engine. while it is heating up squeeze the pipes around the engine to help release the air better DONT put your hands near any moving parts. keep the water full to the top while doing this. when at temp turn off engine and leave to cool down dont add any water or do anything till it has cooled down. when cooled down top up to the mark and should be good then if not then the thermostat may be faulty. or you have a blockage some were in the system that is causing the over boiling problem also check that the fan is working and the temp switch for the fan is working all these can make the engine over heat, also when bleeding the system have the heater on number one and heat on full.

No heat

sounds like you have air in the system, take the top off the water bottle and fill to the top run engine until fans come on and up to temp. keep filling the bottle so its at the top have the heater on but on low blow or no blow squeeze the pipes wile warming up to help move the air. you should see bubbles coming out the bottle when at temp turn the engine off and leave to cool down. you may need to top up now. but dont top up with water top up with antifreeze. put top back on and it should be fine. if not repeat. also check the valve is working and not blocked on the control for water direction will be electric type or vacuum type electric type should click when it is working vacuum type it runs off the engine vacuum line look for a leak in the line. and replace if it has a leak.

Inside of freezer door bubbled up

If the pipe that burst was spraying water onto the refrigerator, it is likely that some water got between the inner panels of the freezer door. This water then froze and expanded, pushing out the inner panel of the freezer.

I'm from Argentina, I speak Spanish translator google I referred only to write in English!. I have a Toyota Previa LE 1991. I had to change the water radiator , having to empty all water from the...

OK this is not be a big problem. You have air in your coolant system. The temperature sensor is not immersed in coolant but is in an air pocket. When the engine is cool remove the coolant filler cap. Inside the car switch the heater controls to maximum. Switch the engine on. As the engine gets warmer squeeze the top rubber pipe between the engine and the radiator. Add more coolant to the filler cap to replace the air bubbles when they are expelled. When the engine is near operating temperature screw the coolant cap on tightly. Keep running the engine and keep squeezing the rubber pipes occasionally to help any air bubbles move. Make sure that the bottom rubber hose from the radiator back to the engine gets hot. Ensure that the fan for the radiator is running. Only when you are sure that no more air is in the system do you switch the car interior heater off. Check the coolant level when the engine has again cooled down and add more coolant if it looks low.

The water dispenser is leaking

Is it a side by side? Did you change the filter recently? If so, Could be air bubble in water tank.

I have a humming and knocking that is happening in my pipes. It seems to be related to my hot water heater. I have unplugged the heater and that helps most of it, but there are still times during the day...

Knocking water pipes are caused by air trapped in the pipe. If the pipe only went uphill and horizontal, the air releases out of the faucet and doesn't cause a problem. But if the pipe takes a turn back down, there is an opportunity for the air to remain trapped. Try this ---. Turn on all of your hot water faucets full blast at the same time. Start with the highest faucet farthest from the hot water tank and work your way back to the one closest to the hot water tank. Count to ten, then close them in reverse order. If that doesn't clear the air, then look for a place where the pipe travels horizontally then back down. If such a place is accessible, and if the pipe is copper, buy a self-piercing tap of the type that are used to supply water to an ice maker. Install it and let some water out and hopefully some air out. If you also attach a section of clear hose you and you open the valve very slowly, you will be able to see the air bubbles in the hose. I use just such a setup on my hot-water heating system and it works like a champ. Good luck!

I am having problem bleeding the brakes on my 2002 kia sportage.Every time I bleed the brakes I only get the peddle up just a bit but not enough.Is there a special way to do bleed them.There doesn't seem...

When bleeding never allow the Masrer Cylinder get below 1/4 full or you will introduce more air, which will mean starting over again. I helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple so that you can see if there is any air bubbles being released. You usually start at the rear wheel that has the longest run of pipe from the master cylinder. Next is the other rear wheel. Next is the front wheel with the longest run and last is the remaining front wheel. Proceedure:
1. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 time then hold down an maintain weight on pedal as it drops when fluid is released.
2. Release bleed nipple and observe fluid coming out for bubbles then retighten when flow stops.
3. Assistant then allows pedal up and waits for a few seconds for cylinder piston to refill fully.
4. Repeat from #1 until no more air bubbles are visible, then go to next wheel.
If pedal still feels a little spongy repeat process after a couple of days driving with engine running so that any remaining tiny air bubbles are purged.
You should also make sure that the brake pedal free travel adjustment is correct because if the free travel is insufficient, it will not allow the master cylinder to operate correctly..

My Hayward sand filter is blowing air and debris back into pool. When I shut it off, air/water comes billowing up through skimmer. What could be causing this and how can I fix it?

You have an air leak in your system somewhere. When it get's in your filter tank the water pressure compresses the bubble and when the system goes off the bubble expands and rushes back through the system and blows the skimmer lid.
Check your pump lid and "O" ring for cracks and be sure it's lubed correctly. Check the plumbing going into the pump and be sure it is tight. If you loose prime or the pump runs with a dirty basket for any leingth of time the water will overheat and shrink the plumbing to loosten it. If this is the case you will need to replumb the pumb.
These are the usual things, but it could be many others. If you open the filter it should have an internal air bleed. Check to be sure this is in good condition and sticks up into the top of the filter.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
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