- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
take the top off the header tank ( part you fill the water in) top to the top run engine until it boils or fan kicks in to cool down the engine. while it is heating up squeeze the pipes around the engine to help release the air better DONT put your hands near any moving parts. keep the water full to the top while doing this. when at temp turn off engine and leave to cool down dont add any water or do anything till it has cooled down. when cooled down top up to the mark and should be good then if not then the thermostat may be faulty. or you have a blockage some were in the system that is causing the over boiling problem also check that the fan is working and the temp switch for the fan is working all these can make the engine over heat, also when bleeding the system have the heater on number one and heat on full.
sounds like you have air in the system, take the top off the water bottle and fill to the top run engine until fans come on and up to temp. keep filling the bottle so its at the top have the heater on but on low blow or no blow squeeze the pipes wile warming up to help move the air. you should see bubbles coming out the bottle when at temp turn the engine off and leave to cool down. you may need to top up now. but dont top up with water top up with antifreeze. put top back on and it should be fine. if not repeat. also check the valve is working and not blocked on the control for water direction will be electric type or vacuum type electric type should click when it is working vacuum type it runs off the engine vacuum line look for a leak in the line. and replace if it has a leak.
If the pipe that burst was spraying water onto the refrigerator, it is likely that some water got between the inner panels of the freezer door. This water then froze and expanded, pushing out the inner panel of the freezer.
OK this is not be a big problem. You have air in your coolant system. The temperature sensor is not immersed in coolant but is in an air pocket.
When the engine is cool remove the coolant filler cap. Inside the car switch the heater controls to maximum. Switch the engine on. As the engine gets warmer squeeze the top rubber pipe between the engine and the radiator. Add more coolant to the filler cap to replace the air bubbles when they are expelled. When the engine is near operating temperature screw the coolant cap on tightly. Keep running the engine and keep squeezing the rubber pipes occasionally to help any air bubbles move. Make sure that the bottom rubber hose from the radiator back to the engine gets hot. Ensure that the fan for the radiator is running. Only when you are sure that no more air is in the system do you switch the car interior heater off. Check the coolant level when the engine has again cooled down and add more coolant if it looks low.
Knocking water pipes are caused by air trapped in the pipe. If the pipe only went uphill and horizontal, the air releases out of the faucet and doesn't cause a problem. But if the pipe takes a turn back down, there is an opportunity for the air to remain trapped. Try this ---. Turn on all of your hot water faucets full blast at the same time. Start with the highest faucet farthest from the hot water tank and work your way back to the one closest to the hot water tank. Count to ten, then close them in reverse order. If that doesn't clear the air, then look for a place where the pipe travels horizontally then back down. If such a place is accessible, and if the pipe is copper, buy a self-piercing tap of the type that are used to supply water to an ice maker. Install it and let some water out and hopefully some air out. If you also attach a section of clear hose you and you open the valve very slowly, you will be able to see the air bubbles in the hose. I use just such a setup on my hot-water heating system and it works like a champ.
when car is at operating temp both heater pipes should be more or less the same temperature. If one is cold, try getting the car up in the air so the radiator or expansion tank is higher than the heater...release (carefully) the pressure cap and give the engine three good revs, see if any air comes out and heater pipes equalise. I there is no air in your system you may have a heater water valve fault. Try to locate valve and see what contols it (mechanical , electrical, vacuum)..maybe itcan be manually moved to open, maybe it neds to be replaced.
If you replace it, the air must be bled from the cooling system (see above), but run car until warm with cap off and air will bubble out.
always check coolant levels later when car is cold. Top up coolant as required.
When bleeding never allow the Masrer Cylinder get below 1/4 full or you will introduce more air, which will mean starting over again. I helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple so that you can see if there is any air bubbles being released. You usually start at the rear wheel that has the longest run of pipe from the master cylinder. Next is the other rear wheel. Next is the front wheel with the longest run and last is the remaining front wheel. Proceedure:
1. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 time then hold down an maintain weight on pedal as it drops when fluid is released.
2. Release bleed nipple and observe fluid coming out for bubbles then retighten when flow stops.
3. Assistant then allows pedal up and waits for a few seconds for cylinder piston to refill fully.
4. Repeat from #1 until no more air bubbles are visible, then go to next wheel.
If pedal still feels a little spongy repeat process after a couple of days driving with engine running so that any remaining tiny air bubbles are purged.
You should also make sure that the brake pedal free travel adjustment is correct because if the free travel is insufficient, it will not allow the master cylinder to operate correctly..
You have an air leak in your system somewhere. When it get's in your filter tank the water pressure compresses the bubble and when the system goes off the bubble expands and rushes back through the system and blows the skimmer lid.
Check your pump lid and "O" ring for cracks and be sure it's lubed correctly. Check the plumbing going into the pump and be sure it is tight. If you loose prime or the pump runs with a dirty basket for any leingth of time the water will overheat and shrink the plumbing to loosten it. If this is the case you will need to replumb the pumb.
These are the usual things, but it could be many others. If you open the filter it should have an internal air bleed. Check to be sure this is in good condition and sticks up into the top of the filter.
Good luck, I hope this helps.