Have it serviced, but is it worth it when it's $100 for someone to come out and that does not include labor and parts.
SOURCE: GE Microwave problems after HV capacitor replacement???
The rectifier diode could indeed be bad. But first I would want to know what value (in uF) the old one was and what is the value of the new one? If they're too far off, the difference in the capacitive reactance could throw off the "tuning" of the circuit. The uF value of the capacitor is optimized in relation to the other components used in the system. Of course, you'd also want to be sure your new cap is at or slightly above the working voltage rating of the old one, too.
SOURCE: GE spacemaker Profile XL1800 vent fan will not shut off
It may be a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel, such as a sticky relay.
I would suspect a sticky relay first, but the door switches should be checked.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
If you need your control panel assembly (smart board) repaired, we do that for $39.95 nationwide.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
SOURCE: Ge Spacemaker microwave jvm240 wv Micro hood combo.
sounds to me like the magnatron has shorted out. i don't know of a way to test them unless you have some high dollar equipment. a continuity test prob wont tell you anything. what reading did you get on the cap when you tested it?
SOURCE: GE Profile Spacemaker 2.0 Microwave
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker or GFI when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door
switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by
opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There
are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches
and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes
it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate
just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch
holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If
you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical
information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and
our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There may also
be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or
hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when
troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE JVM1640WB
Your primary interlock (bottom door switch) is probably shorted, or its mount is damaged or misaligned, keeping it in the "on" position.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If you or someone you
know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on
FixYa:.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
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