The Audio problem

The chimes an turn signal noise come out driver door speaker . Both front speakers not working could be a blown circuit fuse inside the radio or just blown front speaker channel . Your best bet , take it to a GM dealer or someother qualified repair shop . You have no idea of the complexity of this . The radio can set DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes , believe it or not !
DTC B1025, B1035, B1045, or B1055
DTC B1025 01: Audio Output 1 Left Front Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1025 02: Audio Output 1 Left Front Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1035 01: Audio Output 2 Right Front Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1035 02: Audio Output 2 Right Front Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1045 01: Audio Output 3 Left Rear Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1045 02: Audio Output 3 Left Rear Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1055 01: Audio Output 4 Right Rear Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1055 02: Audio Output 4 Right Rear Circuit Short to Ground

Each of the audio output channel circuits (+) and (-), at the radio and audio amplifier have a DC bias voltage that is one half of the battery voltage. When using a DMM, each of the audio output channel circuits will measure approximately 6.5V DC. The audio being played on the system is produced by a varying AC voltage that is centered around the DC bias voltage on the same circuit. The AC voltage is what causes the speaker cone to move and produce sound. This voltage will vary depending on what type of audio is being listened to, talk or music, and type of music, as well as the volume setting of the system. Low volume and talk settings will measure around 1V AC and less, where constant music may measure 3V AC and slightly higher.
DTC B1287 01: Amplifier Control Signal Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1287 02: Amplifier Control Signal Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1287 04: Amplifier Control Signal Circuit Open

The radio provides a remote amplifier mute output circuit to control overall muting of the remote amplifier. The amplifier receives pulse width modulated (PWM) signals on the control circuit at varying duty cycle percentages for controlling muted and unmuted functions of the amplifier. Circuitry internal to the radio monitors the remote amplifier mute circuit for faults and sets the appropriate DTC when faults are detected.

Either the batteries are used up an cannot be charged any longer or the charger is broken.

Quick test...with your Lanzar volume all the way down, connect MP3 player or other type audio source directly to the subwoofer input connection. Play audio and slowly increase volume control. If subwoofer is working using this method, reconnect and check for audio output to Lanzer connection problem, or subwoofer "settings" issues with the receiver.

It sounds like you're not in the right input source (mode) or you have a external source selected. I show your unit as a 1995 model and so check your Tape 1, Tape 2 selection buttons. These "Tape" selection button get dirty contacts that will kill the audio. To clean, with the volume low, press them on and off around 20 times each. This works the contacts back-n-forth and will help clean them.

Master volume control pot is dirty and needs to be cleaned out. You can do this by unplugging the receiver and turning the master volume control back and forth from zero volume to full blast a couple of hundred times to clean the surfaces and restore normal operation.

I have a Korg C-15s and also experiencing loud crackling sounds when I turn it on. The problems seems to be either the sliding volume control or the amplifier itself. Honestly though, I believe the issue is the volume control. I opened my piano to get a closer look and attempted to clean the contacts on the volume. Unfortunately after cleaning the contacts, the crackling sounds became somewhat worse. After I turn the piano on, the volume control is generally rendered useless......volume set to low volume and the noise is quite loud and other times the volume control is set high and get very low volume crackling noise. No real consistency. The noise does diminish after a few minutes but so does the piano sounds to an inaudible level. There were a couple of instances where I turned it on and surprising enough, no no noise and perfect sound. For these reasons I believe the issue is within the volume control and not so much the amplifier. I have an electronics background and noticed that the volume control is very unique in design and is not something that can be substituted with another volume control from other sources.

My recommendation is to check the sound quality of the audio from the RCA L/R audio outs on rear of the piano by connecting to a stereo receiver. If it sounds fine you're in luck. If the crackling sound does not diminish after a few minutes like mine does, I would suggest disconnecting the internal speakers and using the audio out only. You can connect a pair of studio monitors or high quality computer speakers, preferably with a small subwoofer to deliver the full audio range and deeper tone of a real piano. I'm currently using a basic pair of Logitech computer speakers and is quite acceptable until I can afford a high quality set of monitors or relocate my piano closer to my high quality Yamaha receiver.

I hope this info helps a bit.

Ground potential issue, put a ground cheater on it and unplug all other electronic devices on the circuit.

go to control panel
sound and audio devices
voice
under voice recording clk volume and mute the mic phone...........
or
some how your mic is conflicting with speakers. Keep your mic away from your speakers..

Do reply if this woks

I have speaker problem no sound but I know its there because when I turn on volume can hear it turn on it was working before my computer is hooked up to magicjack for my telephone different area code then where I live and the other day when I picked up reciver to make a call could hear my speakers on my phone assastance asap PLEASE
THANKS
Marie

Click start>run then type 'dxdiag' and run the audio driver check. You may just need to re install drivers.