View sonic Optiquest Q7B-3 comes on for a second then black

Sounds like you may have broke at least one of the lamps . The high pitch sound you are hearing is the high voltage that goes to it .

have you told the laptop to direct its output to the external screen? usually n and F5 keys

goes black

LCD monitor needs to be fed with native resolution from the PC video out, this monitor native resolution is 1280x1024 @60Hz, try that setting to see if it helps before opening up the monitor to look for failed components.

First check your cord from the computer to the monitor to make sure the connections are clean and good on the blue vga cord. Plugging it in and out a few times will help clean the pins and holes.
If that is ok: then it may be bulbs.
Pink means that you have bad bulbs inside the screen. sometimes the pink goes away when the bulbs warm up. eventually it won't stay on.
There is a slight chance the power board is also getting weak. You would have to open it up to tell this.
Once partially opened, Disconnect the wide set of wire that goes from the back of the screen to the monitors main video board and then try to turn it on, If it is still bulbs they will really show up with this setup.
If you send me a picture of the power board to [email protected], I may be able to tell if the board has issues by looking at the picture of it.
Fran

This happened to me and I was able to fix it. I cracked it opened and found a bad capacitor, bought a replacement at Radio Shack and I'm back in business. Actually using it right now to post this.
-Jon

Sounds like that monitor has reached the end of the road. I would recommend purchasing another monitor, other than view sonic. Purchase a Dell..they are great!

I think you have the display shut off. the button on the bottom left will shut screen off. It will come on for a few seconds if you touch the screen, but will shut off again. just push the display button again and it should stay on.

I had the exact same problem. The screen went black and the green light flashed. I went ahead and took the monitor apart (scary) and took a look at the power supply circuitry. I saw 6 suspicious electrolytic caps on the board. Three 470uF 25V 105 degree C caps, two 1000uF 10V 105 degree C caps, and one 470uF 10V 105 degree cap. They all appeared to be slightly bulging and one even had a small hole in the top. I decided to replace all of them. The parts cost a little more than 5 bucks. I couldn't find a 470uF 10V cap at my local store so I bought a 16 V version instead, which is fine. Anyway, after replacing all 6 caps, the monitor works as good as new.

Actually that model has an integrated inverter with the power supply. Should be part # xlm1700390004 they cost around 25 bux and are fairly easy to replace.

If you are handy with soldering you could check the three 470 uf caps on the board they are tank caps and when they go they do what you are describing. Open the monitor and look at the three black capacitors if the top is bulged they are bad. If you have a capacitance meter check the capacitance it will most likly be well below 470 uf the caps are cheap like 39 cents if you do go this route use 30v not 25v caps to be on the safe side.

Word of warning switching power supplies can kill you quickly never work on it live and let it discharge at least an hour before working on it.