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F2 Oven overheats

I have a GE Oven Model # JTP15WOW1WW (GE drops the "O" on their parts website for some reason). For the past couple of weeks we get a flashing F2 code after the oven has been on for about 5 to 10 minutes. We can turn off the oven. I was baking some custard yesterday at the normal temperature of 350 degrees. The F2 started flashing so I opened the oven and the top of the custard was burned as if the broiler was on. I called GE support. They said that F2 flashes when the oven senses a higher temperature then the selected temperature. She said to turn off all power to the oven for 10 minutes and then try again. She said that sometimes this resets the oven and solves the problem. I tried that and then turned the oven back on and programmed in 250 degrees, but F2 started flashing again after about 10 minutes. The oven is about 10 years old now, and we use it about 2 times a week. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by Randy Ito on

  • 8 more comments 
  • Hapo Nov 25, 2007

    I have the same issue with F2 and an occasional F5 any suggestions?

  • Anonymous Dec 01, 2007

    We have the same JTP15 over but the number is slightly different - JTP15WDW2WW. Tested the sensor out of the oven, reads just a few ohms under 1100. So what would give the F2 code and cause the overheating if the sensor is fine? Anyone have any ideas?

  • Anonymous Dec 10, 2007

    Well I replaced the temp sensor and still have the F2 error. Any ideas what else this can be? Or is my only option to replace the oven?

  • Anonymous Dec 23, 2007

    Checked out all the wiring and nothing seems burned, charred, no
    evidence of corrosion, etc. that I can see. The bake and broil relays
    are not welded. The self cleaning switches on the lockout look ok.
    Added back the power to restart the oven and the F2 error came back. So guess it's the ERC at fault?


  • rades01 Jan 03, 2008

    We get the F2 error code every time we use the Self-Clean function. Usually turning off the power for 30 seconds has fixed the problem in the past but today it continues to error.

  • bigdogpti Feb 19, 2008

    We have 11 year old oven doing same thing, In the bake mode it seem's to not heat the bottom element, instead if you look at the top element it will be glowing red like its in the broil mode. When you press bake and set tem. the oven will heat up to tem. and will beep when it reaches it but if you check just the broiler element is on.

  • Anonymous Apr 24, 2008

    Same issue with F2 on my 11 year old JKP15. I've already had a similar issue 4 years ago and replaced the ERC then. Question is "Should I replace it again or just trash this thing and buy something more reliable and safe?"

    Does anyone know where there is a schematic of this oven for me to use to replace the ERC myself?

  • Anonymous Apr 25, 2008

    GE Oven JTP15 is also about 10 years old and am getting the F2 error code. Noticed that the bottom element is not working only top element is ON.

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    5 years old GE model jtp30 wall oven. I setup my oven temperature @ 400 for 10 min preheat after 2 minutes the wall oven shut off. I'd broil setup the same outcome. Is there any solution that you can give me for problem? Thanks

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    Oven was working fine yesterday and today it cooked about 15 min and then shut off. I turned the power off and it would work again for about five min and turn off.
    The F0 error code came on about third try.


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Jaz3133, it's probably the temp sensor that has gone bad. You should be able to get it from the front. It's the probe that comes out from the back wall of the oven. You can have someone ohm it out. Should read approx 1100 ohms at room temp. Part number for the temp sensor is WB20K5040. Make sure power is off befor removing the sensor. back.

Posted on Mar 04, 2007



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I had the same problem F2 and an alarm sound. I noticed the brioler top element was very hot and the bake bottom element was not. So I replaced the bottom heating element, The oven is back to normal, BYW, I purchased the bake element off eBay ~$50 including shipping.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009



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Jaz, your problem is most likely the Control panel known as a ERC. After replacing the temp sensor, we replaced the ERC and it took care of the problem. The F2 error means the oven is getting too hot and is beyond normal ranges and the ERC should turn off the oven automatically. If you do a search you can find out what part your oven uses and order it online for around $130-$150, Fairly easy to install but you do have to pull the oven out of the cabinet.

Good luck.

Posted on Apr 06, 2008


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Ge replaced the temp probe and cleaned the filter by the fan. No help. Still get F2 code about 20 minutes into the self clean cycle.
Ge returned and this time replaced the temp limit switch near the fan. However the technician thought that the real problem may be that the opening at the very bottom where the air is taken in is too narrow. He suggested raising the oven a half inch to allow for a bigger opening for the air.
Haven't tested the oven yet so I don't know if replacing the limit switch helped or not. If not I'll try to raise the oven.

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

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F2 and F3 messages - shuts itself off. Any idea of what it is and how to fix it?


F2/F3 error message relates to the oven temperature sensor or thermostat faults.

The fix is normally to replace it.

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F2 Oven temp exceeds 590 w/ unlocked door High resistance or interference in oven temperature sensor. Replace oven temperature sensor F2
Note: Also see fan thermal switches Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation.
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F2 and F3 error codes...Is the oven REALLY fixed now?

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
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I went out to my circuit breakers and turned the circuit off, let the oven cool, and powered it back up after about 2 hours. Fine now.

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Similar problem. When baking over 400 degrees we get the F2 code that can only be reset by cycling the power at the breaker. Replaced the electonics to no avail. I'm thinking its the cooling fan located between the oven and microwave (upper unit) it never comes on which may cause a separate temp switch to generate the F2... but I'm not a pro. :)
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