Can you test a dlp lamp with an ohm meter? - Samsung HLN4365W 43" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

Before you buy a new lamp, use an Ohm meter to test the across it's contacts for continuity. If the test shows the lamp's circuit is pen (infinity resistance reading on the meter), it will give you more confidence that the lamp is the problem. Also, look for blackening or obvious failure in the filament to confirm it. As has been said, the lamp has a finite amount of run-time before it fails. Think of it as a feature that makes the projection television much easier to keep running indefinitely than a flat panel TV.

The answers above are correct. It's either the lamp or the color wheel. Testing the lamp is pretty straight forward. Use an Ohm meter to see if the it's filament has continuity. It's unlikely that a good color wheel would fail immediately after changing the lamp. Look to see if some wiring is out of place and rubbing the wheel causing the noise you described. A jammed but otherwise good color wheel would cause the TV to shut down and display an error code.

well its not connected>? or you forgot to ground the ground wire?
if you had a DMM meter , this would be easy,
you can measure the sensor ohms, at any time with tank in car.
and id have never put back any tank with out checking it first.
not me, pulling tanks is no fun.
and empty tank the gauge sender is at max ohms, (lever down)
so is about 100 ohms and 10 ohms full (ball park) RTM
read the FSM read alldata.com
heck the FSM has a flow chart for these tests. amazing huh?
i dont use it, i use my meter and ohms law.
ill now look online at alldata.
the only think complex is which of 2 systems it is,
in the late 90s most cars changed. to indirect way.
ok , i looked, your car is direct way, (cave man)
its just 2 parts, a gauge and a sender. (sure wires)
the sender is grounded at G751
if the dash temp guage works , then the fuse is not blown , fuse 1.

the tests are cave man simple , all FSM show this.

1: unplug the Yellow/Blue sender wire, at any point
from front (gauge) to sender, any place, there are many.(4 junctions)
now, on the upstream side, key on, and ground this pin for 1min
max, if guage moves pull the ground. (i use $#194 lamp for tests )
i connect my lamp to ground and the other side to the guage,wire.
then key on and see guage move. bingo gauge is 100% good.
cave man easy. (

now the sender.
i measure the ohm.
DMM on 200 ohm scale if manual meter.
i connect black meter to body ground (shiny steel not plastic)
i connect red lead to down stream wire above..Yellow/Blue
it must read 100 ohms empty
not 0 ohms.
not infinity.
if read infinity? the wire is cut, or gound it open or the sender is bad.
if reads 0, the wire is grounded to the body or the the sender is bad (shorted)
do not take my facts on ohms as verbatim,
read the FSM and get the facts.

but i think your tank sender wire is shorted to ground.
some gauges work backwards, and my poor online version
dont cover this. well.
unplug the sensor does guage go full or empty?
most go empty, but not all.
use the lamp to test the gage, get to swing both ways
with lamp to ground and with lamp and wire disconnected.
cheers.

Put on ur machine & go 2 ur display board & press the C button twice then ur display will go off then input figure 1 & 4 that is 14 then press the print button. if this fails then remove ur fuser unit & check d hallogen lamp,test d lamp wt ur ohms meter; it will deflect the meter if its ok & if not change it. then there is a thermolfuse that is close 2 ur lamp check wt ohms meter if its good or bad

These button thermal cutouts should pass an electrical current when cool. Therefore, use an ohm meter or a test lamp to check that. The meter should read zero or nearly zero, and the test lamp should light, to indicate continuity.

No.. power is supplied to both bulbs in parallell... when power is present at one, it's also present at the other. Clarification needed - have you checked to see if you have power (battery voltage) and ground at the fog lamp connectors?.. if so, the problem is the bulb(s) it/them/self/selves. If you have an ohm meter or a test light, it's a simple procedure. Check the bulbs with an ohm meter. Then using a test light (12 volt, make sure the test light bulb is good by connecting it to a charges 12 v battery) connect the test light bulb to each of the fog lamp connectors with the fog lamp sw turned on and the ignition key in the 'run' position. If the test light illuminates at both fog lamp connectors, then the problem is in the fog lamp bulb(s) themselves. If not, there's a wiring/control circuit problem. You can go to http://www.hmaservice.com/ and register and gain access to lots and lots of technical info about your Sonata.

Sure, you can test by Use the screwdriver and remove the protective cover that conceals the ballast.

Observe the ballast before proceeding. If oil is leaking from the ballast, stop here and remove the ballast. Leaking oil indicates that the ballast is damaged beyond any doubt as the internal seal has been ruptured by excessive heat.

Test the high voltage side for continuity between the wires going to the ballast tombstones. There will be either one or two wires going to each tombstone fixture. Regardless of the number of wires, the colors will be the following: Blue or yellow are the power wires and white is the common or neutral wire. this could differ in many models.

Turn the Volt Ohmmeter to "ohms" and touch the ends of the two probes together. The meter should show continuity or a direct short. Touch the probes of the meter to one of the white wires and one of the colored, blue or yellow, or any wires that comes from the ballast. This should show a short or continuous circuit. If it does not, the ballast is bad and should be replaced.

Yes. It should show low ohms. If you've never used one before compare the readings to a norman light bulb and they should be similar. Keep in mind that oils from your fingers will shorten the lamps life if it is good. So if you need to replace it hold the lamp with a clean lint free cloth. Good Luck.

1. Projector lamps use customized ballasts that ignite the lamp by charging it with a higher voltage in the ignition phase and then dropping down to a lower running voltage once the circuit is created.

2. Projector lamps CANNOT be tested with an AMP or OHM meter. Projector lamps function by igniting ultra-high pressurized mercury vapor across an ARC tube. At the point where the mercury vapor resides there is no conductive electrical material and therefore testing a projector lamp with an AMP or OHM will not work.

2. Projector lamps CANNOT be tested with an AMP or OHM meter. Projector lamps function by igniting ultra-high pressurized mercury vapor accross an ARC tube. At the point where the mercury vapor resides there is no conductive electrical material and therefore testing a projector lamp with an AMP or OHM will not work.