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Question about Kenmore 74870 / 74873 Top Freezer Refrigerator

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Kenmore 253.74970400 Refrigerator

Hi, I noticed the other day that the fridge was not turning off. So I took the cover off of the back of the inside portion of the freezer section and found that the coil was all frozen over and the opening where the cold air was suppose to be going down to the lower part of the fridge was completely blocked by ice. I cleaned the ice and the fridge started to work properly. My question is do you think that the Timer for automatic defrost is bad, or you think the Thermostat is bad? Or there is another part that is no good? Help Thanks

Posted by Yury Katsman on


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Yurkat, you want to make sure the defrost system is working. Bottom side of the controls you should see a hole where you can advance the defrost timer into defrost, turn clockwise until you hear a click. The calrod heater that sits under the evaporator should come on. If it doesn't, check the harnesses to both side of the heater and make sure they are in. If the heater still doesn't come on, you will have to test for voltage at the harness to the heater, should read 120V at the harness. If you have the voltage, it's the heater although I don't see too many of them fail. If you don't have the voltage the problem would be in the defrost terminator (bimetal) or the defrost timer itself. From what you were describing, evap frozen over and constant run, sounds like the thermostat could not be satisfied and therefor the constant running. Check out the pic of the bad bi-metal. back.

Posted on Mar 04, 2007



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It is more likely to be the thermostat, it is very common on fridge freezers which only have 1 compresser. thermostat should be no more than 10-12 pounds from a spares outlet. they do universal stats so it would worth trying at that price. hope this helps

Posted on Mar 04, 2007


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Need help diagnosing a SxS FF section not cooling Hi guys, I'm hoping for some help in diagnosing the problem with my SxS FF section not cooling in my Frigidaire (FRS26LH5DS9). I've tried to google & troubleshoot as best I can, but am out of my depth. This fridge came with the house I just bought, and it seemed to be working fine for the first week, although it was a bit noisy. The FF door got left open accidentally for a few hours one day, but still seemed to be working for the next few days. Then the FF section suddenly was not cooling properly; the freezer was still working but had a decent layer of frost on the back panel. The evap coils were frozen (after thawing out and restarting, the problem came back). The evap fan runs but not at a consistent speed--it seems to spin for a couple secs then stop, then start again, and so on continuously. It does not have anything blocking it and spins easily by hand. The motor does have continuity when testing the terminals. The damper seems to work and is usually open, but shuts if I turn the FF temp knob off. The air coming out of the damper is usually a faint puff, but when I thawed out and restarted the fridge it was a stronger airflow (prob before the coils froze up again). I cleaned the condenser coils and tried adjusting the temperature, but this didn't help. Manually initiating defrost from the light switch does not seem to work as the heater doesn't come on. The compressor seems to be working but is pretty warm to the touch, although the condenser fan is working. The compressor seems to run constantly when plugged in, but is not loud. Part of my problem diagnosing is that I am very reluctant to remove any wires from the harnesses, so when wires are paired together I'm not sure if I'm testing what I'm trying to test with the multimeter. E.g. one wire from the bimetal defrost thermostat is paired with a wire to the evap fan motor in one terminal, so if I try to test the evap motor I may be getting a reading off the bimetal as well? I did try testing the evap motor both when cold and when warm, and got about the same reading--not sure if that means anything about the state of the bimetal. When I tried testing for continuity on the bimetal, I got 0L both when cold and warm--but again, might be inaccurate due to the paired wires. And again, I tested the defrost heater and got the expected resistance, but there's a paired wire there too. I'm wondering about the adaptive defrost control too but don't know how to test that. Also really wondering about the evap fan motor due to its constant start-stop. I haven't tested the thermistor yet and am obviously not sure if the readings I've gotten off paired wires are helpful. Any educated guesses or further testing tips would be so appreciated!!

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