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Elba by f & p wa65tm leds 3,6 &8 flashing

Machine stopping at spin cycle with leds 3,5 &8 flashing

Posted by Anonymous on

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Greg Stephen

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  • 566 Answers

That is fault code 41
41. (00101001) Temperature Sensor Fault (Thermistor)
The temperature sensor is measuring temperatures above 110oC. The fault is probably
due to a short circuit in the sensor line. This fault is only applicable in the GW models.
Primary Source: Thermistor.
Action: 1) Check the connection from the thermistor the Motor Control
2) Check the resistance of the thermistor. It should read 12.5k ohms
at 20oC. Replace if faulty.
3) Replace the Motor Control Module.

Posted on Dec 22, 2013

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  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW612 Top Loading Washing

Hi there
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.

first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.


Posted on Aug 03, 2009


  • 209 Answers


check the cold water supply, either from the mains pipe, there is no water getting into the machine, if water is there up to the machine check the solenoid for circuit, to do this unplug from electric, remove lid, and test the two wires on relevant solenoid, no circuit means faulty solenoid, (test with the 2 wires removed from solenoid) take care note position of wires to put back properly answer above based on info given

Posted on Sep 27, 2007


SOURCE: Indesit Standard WIL 123 (UK) Washing Machine

Had a similar problem ,flashing red led means door not locked, I removed door from machine removed front from door and found hinge pin for lock had come adrift, religned pin and chapped back into position .THen replaced door and door to machine .dor shut and lock worked perfectly, hope this helps

Posted on Jan 11, 2008


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GW703 wont stop!

It sounds like your machine has been programmed to automatically run through the various cycles continuously. Most likely in error.

Posted on Mar 08, 2008


  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: INDESIT WIXXL 146 washing machine ( please help

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...

FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.

If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.

Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!!

Posted on Sep 18, 2010

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check the cold water supply, either from the mains pipe, there is no water getting into the machine, if water is there up to the machine check the solenoid for circuit, to do this unplug from electric, remove lid, and test the two wires on relevant solenoid, no circuit means faulty solenoid, (test with the 2 wires removed from solenoid) take care note position of wires to put back properly answer above based on info given
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Fisher and Paykel double drawer dishwasher dead Hi Problem with a Fisher & Paykel DD60DH17 double drawer dishwasher if you can help? I think it's 10 years old or so - maybe a bit more. It packed up and the top drawer LEDs indicated fault code E4. Bottom drawer indicated fault U4. E4 means heater element fault U4 means the bottom drawer won't function due to a fault in the other drawer. Took out the top drawer and got to the heater plate which looked clean as a whistle. Disconnected the 7 pin connector and tested the resistances. The main large element (pins 1 and 2 starting from the left tested as 6 Ohms. Then there's a smaller element in the middle that leads to pins 4 and 5 on the connectors and that read 10 Ohms. That all seemed reasonable. Then I found a youtube video that said how to test from the control panel inside the front panel of the top drawer so I disconnected the 7 pin connector from the control board and tested from there. It says to read the pins from right to left - so I did. It said testing temperature sensor, measure between pins 1 & 2 and I should get about 10 K Ohms - note the K Ohms. I got 10.68 so near enough. Then testing dropper resistor (whatever that is) between pins 4 & 5 the video said I should get about 24 Ohms - I got 97.4. Then testing Element track - video said I should get 25 Ohms and I got 52.5. Bear in mind the video was a USA video so for a 110V model and this is a UK model so 220v which might explain some discrepancies, these results all seem OK in my limited experience. So I have a feeling it's not the heat plate element and don't want to spend 113 pounds on a new one without being sure. But - the plot thickens. Between testing the actual plate element and the second round of tests from the panel, I put it all back together to keep the kitchen tidy then watched the video and prepared for testing from the front. After I reassembled everything the first time, I took the front panel off and found several little wires burned badly - these wires feed the various valves or servos that power the salt and rinse aid dispensers and their LED. 2 were burned through and the other 4 or so were hanging by a thread so I left them for the night to return again with some repair stuff - refitting the front panel for neatness. I did turn the machine on and off several times before I left just to check it hadn't miraculously fixed itself - no change, the same fault lights. I returned tonight and before anything else, turned it on at the wall switch and there was a small pop that sounded like it came from the back of the machine - but I can't be sure. The machine then showed no lights at all. But I checked the power sockets and plug and all was OK and there is a very faint ticking noise coming from the rear of the machine - very faint. But this indicates power is getting to the machine from the mains. I then turned it off, unplugged it and did the resistance tests at the control board connectors as described above. Now I'm stumped and have reassembled it for neatness but am out of ideas. Research seems to indicate there is no fuse or breaker in the machine and I'm not sure if the power goes in and straight to the control board or if there is a weak / breaking point in between. A control board here is about 200 pounds so don't want to but that either if that's unlikely to be the issue. Any ideas please? Thanks Mark


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