My 7th graders spin the lenses on the microscopes when I'm not watching. The result is a loose lens holder (that round thing that holds the three lenses) which makes the microscope unuseable. How do I tighten it back up? Thanks, Carl
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Loose Lens Holder
I seem unable to get a user or service manual online, however at a guess I would think that the retaining mechanism is inside the "head" of this beastie, so in order to access you would need to undo the screw that retains the viewing piece, this should give you access to the internals, however you have to be vary carefull that you do not contaminate the microscope.
it may be easier to send it to be "cleaned" and hopefully when it returns it will have been tightened up.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There are adapters, but normally a 2" collimation tool is way way too heavy for a .965 eyepiece holder. Most of the eyepiece holders are made from plastic, and they break fairly easily, so you take a big chance of your 2" collimation tool dropping to the floor or concrete. Even if the plastic did not break, the weight of the collimation tool would bend the eyepiece holder out of position. It only takes the slightest amount to make your test worthless - after all, you're after precision. Bending or distorting anything destroys the precision. They do make 1.5" collimation tools, and there are adapters to get from the tool to your eyepiece holder. They also make things called "cheshire eyepieces" and regular collimating tools which will work with your 4" reflector.
Well if it is the same as the 720, you will find a small recess in the leading edge of the glass lens/cover. Using a blunt screwdriver, insert it in the slot and twist it. The lens should gradually come away from the side of the oven. DO NOT attempt to do this if the oven has been in use as the lenses will become too hot to handle. Put a cloth on the bottom of the oven to catch the lens as it falls to protect it. Note that there may be a cut out on the inside of the lens to go over the edge of the bulb/bulb holder, so don't try to put the lense back round the wrong way.
Olympus makes good microscopes so you have done well and stereo microscopes are so much nicer to use than singles. As far as cleaning the lenses goes, buy a good quality camera lens blower brush and also a can of compressed air like the ones used for computers. Blow any loose dust hairs etc off with the can of air and then use the brush for anything remaining. If there are fingerprints or grease on the lenses then clean them using camera lens cleaning fluid and lens tissue but make sure all debris and dust are removed first or you may scratch the lenses. In general try not to use anything more than air and a brush unless absolutely necessary. Another option for removing fingerprints etc is to use a "lens pen" with caution. The ones sold for cameras work well but may be too large. They make some smaller ones for cleaning camera sensors and those might work better for the relatively small microscope lenses or just cut the regular lens pen disk to make it smaller. It is just as important to make sure the lens is dust/debris free when using the lens pens.
Low power stereo microscopes often allow you to put on a single magnifier lens in front of the main objectives to increase magnification. Do a bit of searching to find what are options for your model.
The answer to this is Yes and No. Yes there is an adapter to take the FD mount lens which is Canon's Manual lens to an EOS mount which is auto focus. As much as these third party manufacturers claim comparability there is really no way you are going to have "good" results. Here is the No part. To give you infinity focus there must be a lens mounted in the adapter this lens no matter how good the third party says they are you loose light, focal length and sharp focus. Your F3.5 lens will loose at least a stop and a half because the light is traveling through another piece of glass, so you are looking at a lens that is now about F5 at the short end to F6 at the long end. About the focus because now this lens has become your rear element is is more critical to flaws then the front element, any imperfections in that piece of glass is now magnified it still works but the results aren't as good. Also the focal length of the lens has now changed. If you are installing this on an EOS l7D the focal factor would be 1.6 is some cases this would be beneficial but in most others you loose again, it will take that 35 to 70mm lens and give you the focal length equivalent 56mm to a 112mm lens. Yes Canon made these adapters for a short period of time to help the pro shooters and their high priced lenses get through the transition BUT those adapters were only made for the professional lenses that was F2.8 or faster. Yes it will work to some degree but No it's not worth it specially if you are installing it on a New Canon 7D.
Hi, the unit needs to have the laser reader lens cleaned but DONT use regular rubbing alcohol. Get pure stuff....the rubbing type leaves a glare on glass and plastic lenses. Also ,the chrome rails that the laser moves along need to be cleaned and lubed with liquid silicone. This method clears read problems most of the time.
Starting at the bottom of the Compound Microscope scope working up:
The base of the scope houses the illumination system and the field lens. It also provides weighted stablility.
The field lens is where the light comes out of the base. This lens focuses the light from the bulb directly into the substage condenser.
The arm of the scope supports the rest of the scope.
Directly above the field condenser is the substage condenser. The substage condenser collects the light and condenses it further into a more concentrated beam of light. With the substage condenser you can control the amount of light and to some degree the defraction of light. This is helpful in adjusting the "contrast" in the image.
Working up, you find the "stage" which is a platform to support the specimen.
The stage may or may not have a specimen holder and a set of specimen holder control knobs.
The magnifying lenses are called the objectives. They look like barrels pointing down at the stage. These are usually marked 4x, 10x, 40x, and 100x. These magnifications are further multiplied by the power of the eyepieces which are usually 10x. So, when using the 4x you are actually seeing the specimen at 40x and when you are using the 10x objective you are actually seeing the specimen at 100x and so on. The 4x is used to "scan" the specimen so that you can find the most interesting area and then focus in further on that region. It is very hard to find exactly what you want to focus in on starting with the higher magnifications. Always start with the low magnifications, 4x or 10x.
The objective lenses are mounted on a rotating turret for easy selection.
Moving on up the scope is the head. It is comprised of the eye tube and the eyepiece. If you have two eyepieces your scope is referred to as a "Binocular Compound Microscope". If you have only one eyepiece, your scope is a "Monocular Compound Microscope".
Get in the trunk, take loose the screws, lift the lens holder, change the bulb. Unfortunately, it's not as easy as it sounds. The hole for the lamp position is offset about 4-5 inches. You cannot get to the bulb to remove it without taking loose the lens holder. You have to remove 2 screws to do that, one of which is hidden by a piece of foam tape. Also it is impossible to remove the lens holder without slipping a finger underneath to turn the bulb holder. I had to cut off a portion of the bulb holder to slip the lens back in. I left the screws out, as it is impossible to put them back after removal. No wonder the dealer wants $50 to change the bulb-it took me about 45 minutes.
The process for changing the tail light bulbs for a 2002 New Beetle in my case a TDI is relatively simple. To remove the lense and gain access to the bulbs you first need to release the lense holder from inside the trunk by completely unscrewing the large plastic wing nut that is under a round plastic panel that's located almost directly behind the rear brake light lense. To gain access to the plastic wing nut remove the round panel by gently prying it off. After this is done you release the lense by using something flat like a dinner table knife to pry and release the clip that holds the lense in place. Locating the clip: The rear fender has two seams that end at the light lense, the inboard seam (the one closest to the hatch)is where you want to insert the table knife to pry the metal clip that holds the lens in place. Gently and carefully insert the knife blade directly at the seam and pry upward to release the lense. Once the clip releases pull the lens the rest of the way and remove the bulbs by turning the bulb holder sockets couter-clockwise. After this is done remove bulbs by slightly pushing down on the bulb and turning it counter-clockwise. The reinstall is reverse of the removal the procedure.When re-installing take care to clock the lense where the metal clip and the lense protrusions end up in the same position as before. Note: you may need to assist sliding the lens retaining clip in with the knife when reinstalling! Good luck