The heating element will not get hot.
I've checked both elements and there is resistance and there is a voltage between the posts on the element and ground.
I've also disassembled the sensor wires and looked over the circuit board for any burns.
As this is an $800 dryer, I really could use an idea what to look for.
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If you know how to use a multi-meter or volt-meter, open the unit and check for voltage where the heating element connects. You can this with the element connected or not connected... which ever is easier. Unplug the unit before you remove the cover from the heater or disconnect the element. If you don't know how to use a multi-meter, it's time to get one from Harbor Freight and get on YouTube to learn how to use it. Plug the unit in. If you don't have voltage to the element connection, check any and all fuses. If you have power at the heating element connection, check the heating element for resistance with it disconnected. See YouTube on how to measure resistance. Don't worry about how much resistance. If there is none... it's a bad element and you can order one.
heating elements are resistors that get hot
one end will have 115 volts but the other end should be considerable less because the resistance of the heating element drops the voltage
if you used a ohm meter you should be reading a resistance of 500-1000 ohms for a good heater element but with your readings , there will be no resistance so the element is faulty
If I remember correctly, this model has a switch on the motor which activates both legs of the 220 to allow the heating element to come on. There is a wiring diagram under the lid of the dryer and should show this. Hope this helps.
Hi, If your electric oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself... Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..
You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .
If the water does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Take care here - a defective circuit breaker can give a false 240 volt reading - check for the 240 volts across the upper element (i.e. when the 240 volts has a live load on it, not just an open circuit test).
Also, remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.
Check with a multi-meter for voltage (220/115v) on heating element's tags.
If you can read this voltage on tags - you should replace the heating element
In case you can't read voltage on its tags, disconnect one of the wires from its tag (you should unplug first your machine's power cable!) and test for element's resistance - If you can read its resistance, you should replace the thermostat. In case of no resistance - you should replace element and thermostat