The oven and elements won't heat up

the upper element only comes on when you broil or clean with selfcleaner. the bottom comes on when you are baking, it sounds like your bottom element is bad.

It sounds like the control board blew out. I have had a couple of these just blow like that lately. The bake and broil wont work. . Check for any bad wiring but the control board is most likely the culprit.

Find someone with a good electrical meter and have them test the sockets to see if there is any electricity to the burners.
Also, check each burner and check for continuity through the burner itself.
These elements can all burn out, I've see it happen.
Be blesssed.

You might have blown the thermal fuse. Here is a diagram of your unit.
The fuse is number 37 on the diagram. Check it for continuity. Here is the part to order in case it is bad.
Keep me posted.



Regards,
Richard Roth
http://appliancecafe.com
For all your appliance repair needs.

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

I suggest that you remove the upper and lower heating elements to the oven, turn the oven switch to on, then use a good digital voltmeter, and check the plug that the lower heating element was in. If you have good (200 volts or more) then purchase and install new heating elements. Turn the oven switch to Broil setting and check the same way for the top heating element.

Hi, it could be your, electric heating element and oven burner gas valve. both are located in oven burner compartment, remove last bottom panel, locate oven burner, the valve that feed gas to burner, has two wires connected to it, that's oven valve could be faulty, also look on side oven burner, you will see electrical heating element, could also be faulty, it's better to replace both oven valve and element, that's the most common problem, but first check oven thermostat, that's knob you turn to light oven, if thermostat o/k, then it's your oven valve or heating element, (used to ignite oven burner) or call a mechanic, good luck.

I have fix that problem before, the oven heat is soficating the top burners, you will have to adjust top burners with the oven on, so that they will light by them selfs.Or put a shield under the cook top section on the back, so that the heat will not come to the burners where they get the oxigen.

sounding like thermostat isn't working. If you could ohm out the t-stat should be closed when you call for heat. If that passes the test then only thing it could be is the gas valve.

Part of the problem was my own ignorance about this particular Kenmore gas oven. It doesn't even have a pilot light. Instead, there is an electric heating element close to the burner which gets so hot that it ignites the gas. It seems that the heating element also doubles as a temperature sensor, so that it opens the gas valve only when the heating element is hot enough to ignite the gas. This heating element, called the "ignitor", no longer gets hot in my oven even though there is 120VAC applied to it when the oven knob is turned on. Therefore, the ignitor is defective. I ordered a new one on-line from "Appliance Parts of America" for $31.50 plus shipping, and this should fix the problem. If it does NOT, I'll add to this post.