Jl sub not powering on

Take both positive leads to the positive of the amp. Both negatives from the sub to the negative of the amp. Utilize the bridged output connections. This would present a 3 ohm load which would be around 100 watts rms (rough estimate)

Hello drsubhakar26,

JL W6's will perform well with from 150-600 watts RMS. W7's with from 150-500 watts. Less expensive Alpine Type R's work OK with from 200-500 watts RMS. Either of the brands will sound good. None of them will perform to their full potential with 300 watts RMS. Powering any sub with a 2-channel amp is a compromise. A monoblock is more efficient.

Hope this helps.

you should move up to more power....underpowering subs is bad! try not to go under the subs rms by 5o watts?

Hello termite440,

A mono amp will generally provide more power for subs. And for those Audiobahn's, you'll want something that will provide a minimum of 500-600 watts RMS to each, a least a 1000 watt amp. At the low end, something like the Alpine MRP-M1000 or the Orion HCCA-D2400 will provide 1000-1200 watts. I'd recommend the Alpine. For more power, and another $100, look at the Alpine M2000, or for another $250, the Rockford-Fosgate T1500-1bd.

Hope this helps.

I like JL Audio's products and in this case a 1000/1 would match these subs really well considering that each sub is rated at 600 watts RMS. I know that you want to bring these subs to the max and if you're not worried about blowing them up you can use two JL Audio 1000/1's, the JL amps have something called ohm matching and can put out 1000watts RMS at any load between 2ohms and 16ohms. A very use full feature - as well as a subsonic filter that can keep out the bass you can't hear and thus keep your subs alive longer especially if you plan to max em' out. Check out Ebay for good prices on JL Audio. Another choice might be an Audiobahn 2300, or preferably an 1800d. D class amps are best for max output and I've wired an Audiobahn 1800d down to a 1 ohm load (to two dual 4 ohm 15" Cerwin Vega Strokers paralleled down) and it was able to stay alive, but this was not used for prolonged listening (Short bursts for SPL comps). Good luck and I'll leave you with an old trick I used to use on my clients SPL Comp cars. Run an in-line fuse to each sub - start at about a 100amp fuse (1,000w @ 12v = 120 amp draw) and move it up if it blows too early, fuses are cheaper than subs! Let me know what box you are running as it must be built specifically for running the subs all-out. You can e-mail me @ ([email protected]) for free specs on basic enlosures.
-Dynami

I suggest to use separate amps to your sub, get a 2 channel amp for your sub and 4 channel amps for your speakers.

Here are my Top 5

• Lanzar -OPTI4000D

• MA Audio- HK-4000D

• JL Audio 1000/1V2

• OPti 22.2 Power Amp

• AudioBahn-A5100T

Hello,

All of the JL W3 subwoofers are essentially the same. The "d2" and "d4" suffix refers to the voice coil configuration. "d2" = dual two ohm coils, "d4" = dual four ohm coils. Depending on the number of subwoofers in your system and the amplifier(s) you are using to power them, one or the other of the configurations may be "better".

Generally, you want to have the load on your amp to have the lowest possible impedance consistent with the amps capability to operate properly with that load. It's normally referred to as "impedance matching". Greater power (watts) is produced, and louder sound, when the amp can deliver power at a lower impedance.

If your amp is only capable of supplying power at 4 ohms, you want to make sure that the configuration of your sub(s) represents a 4-ohm load. If the load is higher, say 8 ohms, then your amp can only deliver about half the power of which it is capable. It would be OK to run them a 8 ohms, but they would not be as loud. On the other hand, if the load was lower, say 2 ohms, your amplifier would soon overheat and go into protect mode.

So the trick is to first decide on how many subs you want. Then choose an amp/sub combination that "matches".

The DVC or dual voice coils just gives you more options in selecting and configuring. Say you want 2 subs and you are going with the 15w3 d-2. Your amp is the JL Audio G-MAX monoblock. The amp puts out 1200Wx1 Chan. at 2 ohms or 600Wx1 Chan. at 4 ohms. You would wire both of your subs voice coils in series making each sub 4 ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel to your amp making the final load 2 ohms, the best "match" for your amp.

ya the sub is blown or the amp channel is blown

well first off the cap should be reading 14.00 volts not 12 but check on ur settings maybe its to high if that dont work then ur amp or amps is way to powerfull for those sub or theres not enough watts from the amp to the sub causeing the amps to under power the subs but let me no if u got it im all wayz here to help

Connect each speaker coil one at a time to a square 9 volt battery and watch for the cone to move.

Also try hooking another speaker to your amp just to make sure it isn't in the amp.

You can use a 9 volt battery to test wire polarity also. Hook up the + wire of the speaker to the + terminal of the battery and the - speaker to the - battery terminal. If the speaker moved UP or OUT then the wiring is correct. If it moved IN or DOWN then the + and - wires are backwards on the speaker.

Also if you have two or more speakers hooked together test all the same way while they are hooked to each other. ALL of the speakers need to move in the same direction at the same time.

Clipping causes more speaker damage than anything. "Dirty Power" can happen in good quality amps too. The gain control is to match the voltage between the headunit and the amp. It is NOT a volume or boost knob. If you overdrive the first stage of the amp and then clip it damage will occur to the amp and speakers at some point.

Hope this helps.