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Posted on Jul 03, 2012
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How do you adjust the ASA film speed dial on Pentax ME?

Just bought it and I'm having a problem with moving the iso up to 200 (because that's the film I have in it). Maybe I'm not doing it right. I'm not positive. I'm still new to film. I appreciate any advice. Thanks!

1 Answer

kakima

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  • Photography Master 102,366 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 03, 2012
kakima
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Lift up the dial and then turn it. Refer to page 11 of the manual.

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5 Related Answers

daverh

Dave Harris

  • 117 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2007

SOURCE: Contax 137ma ASA will not move...

I have a very vague memory (I used to sell cameras many years ago) that there is a stop at ASA 400 to prevent you accidentally selecting a faster speed. I do remember something of the sort on a camera of that era but it may not have been the Contax. IIRC, you have to lift the dial a *second* time (i.e. a bit higher) to get it past the stop. Hope this helps but it may be a red herring!

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Anonymous

  • 95 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 28, 2008

SOURCE: shutter speed won't go above 200

I have two possible solutions:

First, are you shooting with the flash up or an external flash connected to it? If so, the camera likely needs to synchronize at 1/200 or slower otherwise it won't be able to take a full photo. As a safety feature to prevent that, many new cameras just restrict the ability to pick a faster shutter speed.

Second, if its not related to the flash, it might be related to the mode you are using. Turn the camera off the automatic modes and put it on an all manual setting. Change the ISO to 400 or so, got outside and aim up at the day's sky, put it on manual mode and then adjust the shutter speed. Open up the aperture on your lens all the way (turn it to the smallest number). Now adjust the shutter speeds. It should be able to go past 200 now.

Anonymous

  • 3006 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 10, 2010

SOURCE: Question on SnapSights waterproof camera

The SnapSights SS03 is a non waterproof camera supplied with 200 ISO film so you clearly have the SS01 model for 800 ISO. Both cameras have fixed aperture and shutter speed and rely on the wide exposure latitude of print film. 100 ISO is ideal if you have a camera with a wider aperture than yours, but if you use it then photos will be three stops underexposed; you'd possibly get away with this on land but underwater shots typically have more shadows than highlights and you'd lose a lot of photographic detail. By using 800 ISO the camera will produce photos which are noticeably grainy and with high contrast demonstrated by less detail in shadow areas and overexposed highlights, but for most purposes the photos will be acceptable and far better than none at all.

Colour negative film has a wide exposure latitude so you may wish to experiment with using 400 ISO or even 200 ISO. 400 will be one stop underexposed, but the printing stage can compensate to produce shots which are less grainy with better shadow details but which will lack some highlight detail. This can be partially compensated for if you tell the processing lab to "push process" your film at 800 ISO, but this will usually cost extra and for just one stop under I wouldn't bother, 200 ISO is really stretching it though and you may find that results are unacceptable unless you push process. Ultimately, it all depends upon how dark and how deep you go, but at much below 1,5m everything gets a strong blue colour cast anyway unless you use a powerful underwater strobe light mounted away from the lens axis.

Basically your camera is designed just to give you a taste of underwater photography and is very limited in what it can achieve. Even with a good specialist 35mm underwater camera such as the Sea & Sea MotorMarine II I usually find that I only have one or two usable shots on a 36 exposure roll, so if you do get the underwater photography bug then invest in a decent quality underwater digital model which accepts a proper external strobe lamp. The ratio of failed photos is similar, but at least you can review and delete them immediately without expense.

Testimonial: "Thank you very much for your precise reply.I really didn't expect it!If you wrote aperture and shutter values, it was the excellence worldwide! Thnks"

Anonymous

  • 3006 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2010

SOURCE: the mirror on my pentax pz1 (film) camera is stuck

Mirror lockup often occurs if the batteries are flat.

Try new batteries first and if the problem remains please report back for further options.

Testimonial: "ha ha yes that's what it was thankyou!"

kakima

  • 102366 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: Nikon FA top plate removal

After unscrewing the rewind knob, remove the circlip under it. Remove the disk and pull the rewind shaft stop off the hub (a spring and flat plate). Remove the two screws. You'll need a special tool to remove the little stud the shaft stop was pivoting on. Take a 1/8 inch screwdriver and grind a slot in the blade. Use this tool to remove the stud, then remove the three screws from the plastic cover ring.

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1answer

What is an ISO or ASA? where is it on my Minolta Maxxum 400si

There should be a button that says ISO on it, or just a set of arrow buttons. ASA/ISO are the same thing, and indicate the speed of the film being used. 100/200/400/800/etc. Not setting the camera to the proper setting will result in dark or light images.

If you can't find your ISO setting, try searching Google for your model and you should be able to find a pdf download of your manual for free.
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How do i set the asa on the p30 i was given today

Actually, it's called "ISO" on a digital camera. "ASA" refers to film speed. Anyway, if there isn't a button marked ISO, then you should be able to find it in the camera menu.
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My Pentax IQZoom 115v overexposes every shot for that lovely "washed out" look we all hate. I only use Kodak slide film ASA 100. I've used IQZoom 900 cameras for decades with excellent results....

First, here's a link to a free download of your camera's manual in case you've lost yours.

On page 16 of the manual, it states that in addition to using DX film of ISO 100 to ISO 400:

1) Color negative film is recommended.
2) Non-DX film cannot be used - but then says if it is used, set the film to ISO 100.
3) ISO 400 film is recommended.

Page 25 and forward detail exposure Modes. This should be your next area of interest in the manual. If you are unable to to solve the problem at this point, there may be an issue with the aperture of the lens being stuck open - or the shutter remaining open for too long. Either way, it will probably need to be serviced professionally to get it working again. You might consider replacing this camera as repair costs may exceed the value of the camera.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.
1helpful
1answer

Question on SnapSights waterproof camera

The SnapSights SS03 is a non waterproof camera supplied with 200 ISO film so you clearly have the SS01 model for 800 ISO. Both cameras have fixed aperture and shutter speed and rely on the wide exposure latitude of print film. 100 ISO is ideal if you have a camera with a wider aperture than yours, but if you use it then photos will be three stops underexposed; you'd possibly get away with this on land but underwater shots typically have more shadows than highlights and you'd lose a lot of photographic detail. By using 800 ISO the camera will produce photos which are noticeably grainy and with high contrast demonstrated by less detail in shadow areas and overexposed highlights, but for most purposes the photos will be acceptable and far better than none at all.

Colour negative film has a wide exposure latitude so you may wish to experiment with using 400 ISO or even 200 ISO. 400 will be one stop underexposed, but the printing stage can compensate to produce shots which are less grainy with better shadow details but which will lack some highlight detail. This can be partially compensated for if you tell the processing lab to "push process" your film at 800 ISO, but this will usually cost extra and for just one stop under I wouldn't bother, 200 ISO is really stretching it though and you may find that results are unacceptable unless you push process. Ultimately, it all depends upon how dark and how deep you go, but at much below 1,5m everything gets a strong blue colour cast anyway unless you use a powerful underwater strobe light mounted away from the lens axis.

Basically your camera is designed just to give you a taste of underwater photography and is very limited in what it can achieve. Even with a good specialist 35mm underwater camera such as the Sea & Sea MotorMarine II I usually find that I only have one or two usable shots on a 36 exposure roll, so if you do get the underwater photography bug then invest in a decent quality underwater digital model which accepts a proper external strobe lamp. The ratio of failed photos is similar, but at least you can review and delete them immediately without expense.
1helpful
1answer

The flash is not very brightthe test button fire the flash just fine..but when i fire it when i take a picture the light is very weak

Are your pictures properly exposed?
Does this flash have power settings on the back? If so, move it back to full power.
If your pictures are properly exposed then its doing what its supposed to.
If no power setting on the back, check what ASA you have it set for. 800 or 1000 speed film requires much less light than 200 speed film. Adjust ASA based on your film.
0helpful
1answer

No asa setting , how do I set the camera?

Is there a row of electrical contacts inside the camera's film chamber where the film canister goes? If so, then the camera automatically reads the ASA or ISO value from bare metal areas on the outside of the film canister.
1helpful
2answers

How do i increase or decrease my power on my metz 60-ct?

The dial on the top does nothing to the flash. It's just a guide, like a simple ruler.

Example:
You just set your ASA/ISO (Yellow Line) to Orange DIN/ASA Number to match your camera's ASA/ISO.
Then just read those Scale of F Stops to outside to get FT/M (Feet or Meter).

The true meter from flash is on Handle of flash:
Set Orange Horizontal Line to ASA/ISO Number to match camera.
Set Left Slider, push up & down, to the F Stop that you wanted to shoot.
You have 6 Auto Sensor F Stops
1 for M (Motordrive)
1 for W (Winder)

Hope they are helpful on all photographers using Metz 60CT-1 Flash.

Truly,
[email protected]
0helpful
3answers

Nikon NEWBIE

put simply the ISO number is how sensitive the film is to light, the higher the number the more sensitive the film. The ISO on the camera sets the exposure system to give the proper exposure for that film (the f/n80 usually sets the ISO automaticly). Also the higher the ISO the more grainy the picture, I would recommend using ISO 200 film for the pictures you describe. I would set the camera to the P setting it is a good all-around setting.
0helpful
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Over exsposed pictures from my pentax me Super

Hi Pete,

Say you're using ASA/ISO 100 film:
Photos come out overexposed and you were shooting in A or S or P modes.
Just set your ASA/ISO to 200: this will gives one stop less and images will be correct.

[email protected]
0helpful
1answer

Contax 137ma ASA will not move...

I have a very vague memory (I used to sell cameras many years ago) that there is a stop at ASA 400 to prevent you accidentally selecting a faster speed. I do remember something of the sort on a camera of that era but it may not have been the Contax. IIRC, you have to lift the dial a *second* time (i.e. a bit higher) to get it past the stop. Hope this helps but it may be a red herring!
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